Archive for March 2011

Answers to your questions


Dear readers,

I need to thank you all for your emails and comments you keep sending to us. We read everything very carefully and we value and truthfully appreciate that you're getting in touch. Unfortunately we have came to realize that there would be no time for anything else in life than responding to your emails if that is what we would have chosen to do and even though I would like to personally reply to each and everyone of you who take your precious time to write to us, it is just simply impossible. And instead of me feeling bad for not responding to the 247 unanswered emails we have in the inbox in this very moment, I would now like to take the chance to answer to some of the most frequently asked questions which we encounter in the daily emails and comments from you.

Many of you seem to enjoy the photos on this blog, thank you very much, and you want to know what equipment is used: I am photographing with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II and used are lenses such as: Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 II, Canon EOS 70-200 mm f/2.8 L IS USM and a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. Occasionally I throw over the camera to Alex, how else would we get all those narcissistic bikini pictures of yours truly. Sometimes there is also a remote control from Canon and a tripod from Hama Star in use, that's when Alex is fed up with taking my photos and also when we're both featured in the images.

The 5D is also a great video camera and while we still haven't even started any serious video shootings, I will with time show you how amazing videos this camera produces. The old camera which is the one used for all photos featured in this blog before September 2010, is a more simpler Canon camera. The Canon EOS 450D (called Digital Rebel XSi in the US) is the one I would like to recommend to anyone who are in the thoughts of beginning to understand the difference between a compact digital and a digital SLR camera. To this one I used the standard lens which came with it and also sometimes a great macro lens, the Canon EF-S 60 mm f/2.8. This camera is still quite a lot in use, especially because it is much lighter to carry around with than the 5D and also because I love the macro lens mentioned for close ups.

More frequently asked questions: 

How are we able to stay in such good shape when living aboard a small boat and can we give some advice for others who wants to stay fit while cruising? Ok, this is a tricky one as I assume you might think there are some miracle advice, but I'm sorry there aren't. Alex is simply born the way he is and all his sporty young years have made him an athlete for ever. Lucky him, I say, myself I'm born as a woman and while not being 21 any longer, I need my weekly workout and also I need to somewhat regulate my chocolate, cheese and wine intake, if you know what I mean. Added to that I am, just like many other women out there, pending in weight like a yo-yo depending on how much water my body contains for the day and even though I might look very well trained and fit one day, I could equally swollen up like a balloon for the day after. Obviously I will only show myself in this blog when I have my skinnier days, so keep that in mind as well. Other than that, I have my own workout scheme adjusted to the life aboard a sailing boat and if you are really really nice I might give you some video instructions one day. I'm joking.

Then we have a few of you who wants to know where my bikinis are from and on that I can tell you that they're purchased from everything from Missoni and Mango to H&M, La Perla and Calzedonia and all are blended and used in a sweet melange. My favorite mix is the black La Perla bottom with the yellow Calzedonia top.

Many of you guys out there are also planning your own great escape from mundanity and you want our help and advice in areas regarding sponsors, cruising budget, planning of a journey, advice on how to break free from the normality and other things concerning a life change/cruising/financials etc, as well as Alex practical suggestions for gear, equipment etc and as soon as our new website is up and running (hopefully launched in next week) I promise that you will have our reply on some of those questions, and maybe even all of it with time, over there. 

And that would be all for now. Thank you again for your emails and comments, they mean a lot to us. Please keep them coming.

/Taru

Still in transit

Who knew we would stay in Martinique for a whole month, not us, that's for sure. We were supposed to get a replacement unit sent to us for the device which mystically stopped functioning on the Atlantic ocean, but one whole month has now gone and still no new device in sight. Last information we received was that it had arrived in St Marteen, and that was for more than one week ago. Extremely slow service at KVH. Let's see if they can manage to get it solved this week.

During our waiting here we at least had the time to reorganize ourselves after the Atlantic crossing and it took its little time. There were all those stanchions that had to get polished, portholes that had to get cleaned and polished and all lines which had to get washed and scrubbed etc etc. All loose things in the boat are now in their right place again, in the boxes where they belong and everything that we have found out not to be necessary, like all those extra sails that took too much space, are thrown out and left to people who better need them. The hull is cleaned, the bathing platform's treated, all the food and cartons of cans and bottles are reorganized. All of the clothes and garments are washed and everything else is now back to it's shiny, comfortable appearance. Thank god for that, you should only have seen the disaster we managed to create in 3,5 weeks on the sea. Alex has also had the time to fix some fiberglass on our boat and also helped a couple of other boats with their fiberglass work (yes he's a pro in that as well) and in between the cleaning, washing and reorganizing I have kept myself busy creating a new website. A website which will be up in the next couple of days or so. So good and necessary things has definitely gotten done, but still, all this enforced waiting is driving us insane. We need to move on now!

Espresso in the making

You remember once we were talking about things we would miss on our tour around the world, I had quite some things on my list though that list has slowly decreased in size, while Alex's only concern was how to get a hold on a proper cup of coffee on the oceans where it is hard to use an electrical coffee/espresso machine. 

While not being a passionate coffee enthusiast myself (yet), I have still tried many varieties to make my man satisfied concerning his coffee needs. So several different moka pots and 5-6 different coffee brands were tested (Illy being the best so far), different types of preparations have been exercised and obviously we also got a proper electrical frother to get the right fluffy consistence on the milk and it was all OK in the end. He was kind of satisfied. But I could see it was just OK. Something was clearly missing. What we didn't know at this time was that there actually existed a stove top espresso machine specially developed for gas burners. So when Londinium Espresso contacted Alex with an offer of a Bacchi espresso machine from Trieste, Italy, he/we naturally got very interested.

When the espresso maker arrived for some day ago and we picked it up from its (beautiful) packaging we instantly got stunned by the extraordinary design of the machine. It is definitely a real piece of art and the sophisticated look of it puzzled well with our vision of how a proper galley should look. It was just like this was that last missing part for our kitchen. Solid, anodized aluminum is used and the machine has an old fashioned valve that whistles when coffee's ready. There are quite some more features and parts to describe the coffee maker fully but these are our first superficial impressions so far. Like with any coffee/moka/espresso machine, they reach their full capacity when used several times and when the piping is fully saturated with coffee flavor so let Alex get back with judgements on the actual coffee in a while and let's admire this beautiful piece of art until then. But it definitely looks like this elegant machine might be able to save us from the coffee related tensions occurred in the mornings. Let's see!


Good morning friends


A good start on a Saturday morning is to indulge in sweet and juicy watermelon, no? 

We have a passage to make today, Alex has for the second time in the last ten days committed to deliver a boat between Martinique and St Lucia and this weekend it is time for another. Interesting for us to sail together with other boats I must say, a good insight to understand how much we value our beloved Caos and also a good chance for us to figure out which features could be interesting to evaluate for the time we'll choose to upgrade from what we have right now. More space is definitely on our must have list for the next boat and for Alex it would also be important with more length of hull to obtain a faster ride. While we at the same time, like many times before, have understood that the strength and the quality of the Hallberg Rassy's are very hard to beat. Hoping to get the chance to try out many more boats before we take the decision to upgrade. 

While I'm still some kind of a newbie in sailing like most of you might know and I have been on maybe ten sailing boats in total in my whole life, Alex has skippered numerous small and large private sailing yachts (and motor yachts) and it is now very interesting for me to see him handle all different boats with such skills. I can't wait for the day when I get the chance to see him maneuvering a boat like this. Will probably last a while before a boat in that size belongs to us, but if you're in need of an extremely skilled and experienced skipper for a day or two for your super sailing yacht, or any yacht for that matter, in the Caribbean, let us know. Just make sure you also have enough space for a female photographer! /Taru

The last boat we delivered, a Dufour 445

Updates


Some pages slightly updated:


Antigua? St Barths? Guadeloupe? St Maarten? Brazil? Curacao? Aruba?

Very soon time to move on. We're in need of some action... let's see where the winds will take us this time. /T&A

Boat(s) of the day - Hallberg Rassy 352

It is quite common to see other models of the Hallberg Rassy's sailing all over the world and sometimes we even have a chance to meet the same model we have, the HR 352. But it is certainly not too common to meet two of the same sisters on the very same day. First we passed by the Swedish boat arriving to Le Marin for a week ago, on the same night in Sainte Anne we ran across this German flagged HR 352. Always interesting to compare looks and features and also it is quite nice to see how good they look from a distance, just like our baby, Caos. The HR352 is, like the reputation says, a very comfortable, safe and strong boat for crossing oceans and many have chosen it for their own circumnavigation. Maybe that's what these people have committed to do, too?  /T

Regarding comments

Just a quick note: None of the comments which is sent to this blog will be shown before I or Alex have accepted them, so you do not have to send your comment two times. Sometimes it can take some hours or even a day or two before the comments are moderated, simply cause we can't and won't be by the computer all day long. We always appreciate your point of view and the discussions we're having in the comment fields, but please be patient, don't repost if you can't find your comment straight away and it will appear next time we or I log on. Thanks. /T

Addicted to guava (and rum)


A very simple but delicious rum drink:

Rum, fresh guava juice, freshly squeezed lime. Ice would have been a good addition obviously but ours had melted in the freezer from the tropical heat.. went down well anyhow.

Cheers!

Colorful catch


We went out fishing the other day. First we had an about 2 meter long Sailfish biting off the line, then Alex picked up this exceptionally large Dorado or Dolphin fish or Mahi Mahi or whatever you prefer to call this beauty of the ocean. It measured 135 cm (4.4 feet) and he was a great fighter, took about 30 minutes to work it up on deck. /T

Morning glory

I remember that earlier, while we still were kind of attached to land and lived in Barcelona, I was sometimes wondering about how some of the cruisers we had the chance to meet got their energy and why they were so boring in the nights. They seemed to wake up so early full with energy and they were always tired and sleepy for a late nights dinner or a good party - something that me/we still occupied us with at occasions in our hometown - now I have came to a complete understanding.

When living so close to the nature, you want nothing else than to take advantage of all the sunshine hours you can get and nowadays I wake up at 6.40 - every single morning. It is like I had an inner alarm telling me that exactly at 6.40 it is about time to get up to not waste your time and I find it very refreshing to get out from the cabin, open the doors of the companion way and get greeted by the warm sun which is just about to rise. On the other hand I have hard to keep my eyes open after 9.30 pm and more than once a week I fall heavily asleep on the couch in our saloon or on the comfortable cushions in the cockpit after dinner. My body and soul have slowly got synchronized with the flow of the nature and rather than following the beat of the night like the night creature I earlier might have been, I now get up perfectly in time for when the sun rises and I go to bed when the sun have disappeared with it's light and warmth behind the horizon, instead of the opposite.

Very interesting. I can't even remember the night we were up after midnight and thankful I am for that, especially here in the Caribbean as the sun rises very early and also goes down soon after 6.30 every night. There are very few sunshine hours and these we want to take care of as much as we can. Very fascinating how the human mind and body have so easy to adapt and most wonderful it is how much better and cleaner the soul and mind feels when living by the laws and flows of the nature. And what an incredibly good sleep you get on top of that. Of course I can occasionally miss a real good wild fiesta, but now I kind of wonder if I really would have the energy for it all. Times has definitely changed. It is interesting, strange and beautiful at the very same time. 

You ask, Alex answers


So as this is a sailing/cruising blog - as much as it is a food blog, a travel and adventure blog and a blog about life, music, philosophies, bikinis, love, rum and everything else in between - I would now like to share with you some sailing/boat related information. Gregor, one ambitious reader from Slovenia sent us a list of things he wanted to have answered so let's just roll with it and go step by step in his list of wonderings. Here's just a part of the long list he sent over, more questions and answers coming soon.

Anchoring
What kind of anchor are you using?

Delta from Lewmar 20 kilo (44lb) as a main anchor, Cqr 25 kilo (55lb) as a secondary anchor. Third one is a Danforth on about ten kilos (22lb). For the dinghy we have a grapnel anchor 1 kilo (2.2lb).

Do you use any type of chain shock-absorbing while the sea is heavy?

Yes there is a nylon/polyester line.

How much does the boat weight? do you use 8 mm chain?

Boats total weight is now around 8 tons. Yes, 8 mm chain is used for the anchor.

Do you have 1000W electrical windlass?

No, 1500W, 12 volt.

Is it stainless steel or galvanized metal?

Aluminum. It’s a Vetux Ajax.

How much chain do you put in the sea while anchoring over night?

Depends on the conditions obviously. Can be everything between 30 and 60 meters. For tonight for example, we got 30 meters of chain as of normal wind conditions. Usually I put 5 times the depth in normal conditions, if there’s more than 30 knots of wind, I prefer to put 6-7 times the depth (depth counted from the anchor roller to the bottom).

Do you have problems finding the right spot to anchor, considering the wind conditions?

Not usually and very rarely here in the Caribbean, in Mediterranean it can be more tricky as the wind changes quickly. The only anchor problem we encountered in the Caribbean was when anchoring in very muddy ground with this new Delta anchor. For some reason it doesn’t grip as well in soft mud as in other grounds. But normally you just had to reset it a couple of times and it’s solved.

Navigation
What type of navigation equipment do you have on board?

Garmin GPS and Chart-plotter 720s, Garmin portable GPSmap 60cs, paper charts of all areas we’re cruising in, Astra IIIB Sextant, Garmin Radar, Max-Sea as a backup. Generally we always check with the paper charts to confirm.

What e-charts do you use? (Navionics, Garmin etc.)
Garmin. C-Map.

Can you rely solely on electronic charts or you also use traditional way of navigation? (paper charts, compass etc.)

See answer above.

Do you use radar?

Yes, from Garmin.

Electrical
How many amp-hours do you use per day?

Depends. On the Atlantic crossing we used around 90-100 amps per 24 hours. That’s to run the fridge, GPS, Radar some hours in the nights, the fresh water system, the watermaker, the satellite Internet, charging computers etc. Here on anchorage we use much less obviously. Will have to get back regarding this when I did a proper counting but I would guess somewhere around 50-55 amps per day.

How do you monitor your power consumption - do you have only voltmerer or do you have a amp-hour consumption display?

Amp-hour consumption display. Nasa BM1.

What kind of batteries do you have onboard? what capacity?

Service battery bank 320 Ah, Engine starter battery bank 110 Ah.

How do you charge it - how much energy can you get from solar panel and wind turbine? How often do you have to run on motor to charge the batteries?

Solar (Kyocera), wind generator (Aerogen) and a fuel generator 2000W. We run the engine once every 36 hours more or less during downwind passage but never on anchorage.

Do you use LED lights? do you use fridge all the time? how much time per day do you use computers and watch TV?

Every light is LED except the steaming light, will change this to LED too soon. Fridge is on all the time. We never watch TV as we don’t own one and we're happy so. During the Atlantic crossing the computer was used max one hour per day, normally Taru uses her Mac Pro 0-3 hours per day. Charges it on the boat every second day.

That's all for now, let me know if you'd like to add some questions to those areas and I will try to answer when I have time. /Alex

More beach life

If you for a single moment doubted on the amazingness we experienced the other days when on beach exploration in Les Salines, here's some more images for you. 

Freedom


A life without a Blackberry or an iPhone is such a wonderfully relieving and fulfilling life and I'm glad they're all finally gone from our surroundings. Hello privacy! Do you have any idea of how many hours per day you gain by not being in constant touch with other people/your email/facebook accounts/twitter updates/blogs/news all.the.time? I'm thinking it must be something like 4-5 extra hours given to you each and every day when getting rid of the phone. The unconscious stress which evolves within us when constantly being reachable is one of all of those evil little things most of us just accept and keep living with in the modern (destructive) society - but let me tell you that nothing feels better than to cut old habits like those. I have thrown out so many bad old habits from my life lately and I feel so light. I feel free, you know what I'm saying? This above pictured moment shows the only type of phone communication we're having nowadays, along with some occasional Skype sessions with dear family members and friends of course, and the best thing is that it's completely up to us when we feel like being in touch and not. No beeping or ringing every minute from every corner, just a visit to the good old booth every once in a while. This is one of those things that we've discovered gives a new peaceful dimension to our lives. It's simple but oh so rewarding. Much more time for real life.

Boat of the day - Drumbeat


This is one impressive yacht we ran across the other day in Le Marin, Martinique. S/Y Drumbeat, a luxurious superyacht produced by Alloy Yachts. The 174 ft ketch was constructed and launched in New Zeeland in 2002, according to the constructor's websiteand has a total sail-area of 1139 m2/12.220 sq ft. Beautiful, isn't she? /T

In paradise

Hello!

We took a little vacation from the blog and our emails for some days as we found a little piece of heaven on this island. Clear turquoise water and powdery white sand. How cold is it where you're at, you said? The water is 29°C (85°F) over here. Did I say heaven?

Boat of the day


Luckily not ours...

We've collected so many photos of different, inspiring, interesting, special, odd boats in our memory cards from all the travels we've done around the world that I thought I could share some of them with you all every now and then. This specific one is one of those which breaks your heart when they appear in your direct surroundings. To brake a mast is something far more common than I thought as we see them everywhere and you know it could have happen to your boat, any boat. Especially terrifying and sad it is when you meet boats with a broken mast who just crossed the Atlantic ocean, just like we did. With that stormy ride we made our last days of the crossing, it could most definitely have been us arriving to the Caribbean in this very condition. These guys were in a way lucky as they were able to get to shore without assistance, we all know how bad it could have ended.  /Taru

Sunny days

It's seriously hot here today. Luckily I have my Spanish flamenco fan comfortably on hand. And let us not discuss my hair further. I'm undergoing a several steps decolorization/bleaching process and will soon be back to my original roots. It is about time to get back to some type of ash brown/copper blonde or whatever my natural Scandinavian hair color might be called. Just bare with me for a couple of more weeks and let's ignore the disaster until then..

Hello gorgeous

Alex have caught so much fish during our life aboard that tuna, barracuda, dolphin fish (Mahi Mahi) and amberjack starts to feel a bit boring. More interesting it is when he pulls up random fishes with a new type of look, like this little bastard. But what is this? I know we have quite a few bird experts reading our blog who've helped us identify a couple of flying creatures in the past, might be we have some fish specialists here as well. So. What do we got here today?

Plans and wonderings

We are based in Martinique for a while longer. As this is France and EU, it makes it easy for us to sort out administrative tasks, get shipments to arrive safely and other things are easy to sort out here and has to get done before we’re ready to move on again. Might be we'll have the time to revisit St Lucia once again before we head up North, would be wonderful as we haven't had the chance to visit the Pitons and Soufrière as yet. Our plan thereafter is to set sail towards Dominica and Goudaloupe in the end of this month and perhaps spend some days/weeks in Antigua and St Barths in April/May before we return back down South where we'll most probably spend the hurricane season. Or maybe we skip the most Northern parts of the windward/leeward islands and sail on straight towards South and spend a longer time in St Vincent and the Grenadines, Mustique, Bequia, Grenada, Tobago and thereafter the ABC's for some weeks? We can't really make up our mind.

Caribbean, as far as we have understood, is beautiful and colorful, a bit inspiring, and the light here is more than spectacular. The Caribbean islands we've seen so far might not be as secluded and private and not totally as paradisish and lush as some parts of Asia or the Indian Ocean as we know it, or might be we haven’t found those hidden gems as yet? Search continues. One question for you who've been around the world: What are your absolute most favorite, dreamlike, unexploited paradise in the Caribbean sea? And we're not looking for places where you'll find 250 charter boats anchored on the same spot and beaches overcrowded with tourists, no it is the quietness and privacy combined with a dreamlike atmosphere and a breathtaking nature and sea life we're after. Or do we really have to get out in the Pacific to find that?

And then another question: since we've already decided to stay around here in Central/South America for the rest of the year before we head out in the Pacific, we're also keen of finding the perfect place for putting the boat, and ourselves, for the hurricane season. So far we have these options on our list: Grenada, Trinidad and Brazil. Have any of you spent the hurricane season in any of these places and what are your experiences with them? Is Grenada really a safe place for the boat during the tropical storms and what about the ABC islands?

Thankful for your thoughts.

/Taru and Alex

Last night of the carnival

We kind of ignored the carnival this week which has been going on for five days or such and we decided to go out only on the last night. Too bad for us that the final nights celebration ended already around 10pm as people finally* would get back to work on the morning of today. That didn't stop us (me) from dancing to the last zouk beats playing on the beach last night though. Here's some retro zouk love music for you all, straight from Martinique.

*I'm saying finally not for the fact that the carnival is over, but because we're waiting for shipments and packages to arrive and finally the postal service is working again.

In love with a fruit

I announce the pamplemousse to be the best fruit on this island. It is so sweet and juicy that you simply wanna die when you eat it. No I'm serious! I have never tasted anything sweeter and more fresh under this sun. The pulp is so so tender, the juice so rich and scrumptious, the fruit is simply perfect with just the right amount of acidity. And do not get frighten by the ugly brown speckled peel - these fruits are in fact better the uglier they are on the outside and more delicious than any grapefruit I've ever tasted. 

Love Peace and Happiness

Sorry to sound like a fucking cliché or a complete hippie all the time but when I see these pictures we took the other day I, again, get reminded of the point in what we've chosen to do with our lives. For are there anything greater, stronger than the happiness and contentment you can feel from only being close to another human being? The one you love most. Just like that alone could be enough to feed ones soul.

We're now gone from all the stress, gone from a destructive world and instead we're spending more time with each other, enjoying what mother nature have given us. In peace. On our conditions. In our speed. Someone once said "the hard thing is to find a person you stand for a longer period and in more than ten minutes at a time" and I can definitely relate to it from an earlier life but this time it is all so different. So simple. So real. So... right. 

I vote for love to be the new universal religion. That's at least what gives us strength, hope and a peace of mind.