The further down South we sail, the warmer it gets

Unfortunately we haven't had the chance to practice any kind of physical exercise more then sailing for the last eight weeks or so. All the stress with getting the boat ready have locked us up to the extent that barely nothing have been tempting else than working on the boat but now it's time to get back in shape again. Many of you have been asking for bikini pics for some reason, and now when the sun's back for real and I'm back to work on my curves and abs again, I will do my very best as the blog administrator of this blog to light up your cold and dark winter nights in New York, Gothenburg, Austin, München, Moscow, Stockholm, Trondheim, Paris, Berlin, Toronto or wherever cold y'all might be located. Easier now also when we hopefully will be cruising around the equator and nowhere colder, for the next two years or so. One has to stay faithful to the blogs duties, right!? 

Last night

We didn't reach Denia last night like was planned. The wind died out and we're trying to use the engine as little as possible until we'll have it fixed - so we went to Gandia, 30 miles away from Valencia. Gandia is a sleepy tourist town, empty on tourists now in late November. 

When we are too tired to cook or in a need of getting out of the boat, one of the major projects in smaller towns like this is always to find a proper place to eat. Having lived in Spain now for some years (alex 7, me 2 in total), you're pretty fed up with the traditional tapas and to find something else in off season in a small village/town like this, is pretty damn hard. Often we end up in the local arabic kebab place just to get some variation - but last night we were lucky. We had walked for maybe 20 minutes by the beach and in between smaller streets, when we finally spotted it from a far. A cozy, candle lit hole in the wall - so untypical Spanish in it's style that we almost ran to it. The Italian restaurant was owned by an Argentinean man who hosted the place with his son and the food was out of this world. Simple and nothing really special in the sense of products or even preparations, just so untypical to what we are used to when searching for a restaurant in the middle of the night in a small fisherman's/tourist town. 

We ate and we ate and we ate till we couldn't eat anymore and I think I am still full from it all this morning. Extra plus also for not serving cold red wine but normal room tempered! The average Spanish restauranteurs have normally a (strange) tradition to store their red wine in the fridge and serve it ice cold to their clients. But this little restaurant scored all right. And not to forget the typical Argentinean dulce de leche pancakes we had for dessert. So freaking tasty mmmm. Just what we needed and on top of that, we had to only pay 48 Euros for the whole gormandizing. A perfect bargain for an excellent dinner.

This restaurant in Gandia is called La Tarantella and is located on C/ Navegante nº 1, Tele: 96 284 16 51

/T

Valencia


Right after we left our berth in Vinaròs for an 68 nm passage towards Valencia, we received an email from Gustavo Benavent, the manager of Marina Real Juan Carlos I - one of the official marinas for the Americas Cup. He told us that they've been following our blog for a while and wanted to invite us for a complimentary berth for our stay in Valencia. Of course we accepted the invitation! Although we couldn't stay for much longer than 1,5 night (we arrived 5 in the morning on Thursday) - it was a very pleasant stay. The Marina Juan Carlos has an excellent location, perfectly accessible entrance when coming from our direction and the harbor boasted with first class service and facilities. We would have loved to stayed some more but we needed to proceed with our journey today. We can much recommend this excellent marina to anyone who're ever around. 

Thanks for this time!

And special thanks to our dear friend Armand for the wonderful Paella lunch!

In the Russian news


We do not only have plenty of American, Australian, German, Swedish and loads of other European fans and friends over the world, but also a couple of new from Russia. Thanks to the luxurious online yacht magazine itBoat - our little tour have receive greater publicity in the eastern state. We love the stylish website and the article about us is great. Check it out here. If you can't read the beautiful Cyrillic alphabet, try to translate it here to English.

My love for the sea

Last night was finally time for some action. We've been waiting for it for a while and every time we were expecting good wind and some speed under our keel, either the wind died out or the forecast was wrongly predicted. Yesterday late afternoon we left our calm berth at L'Ametlla de Mar to finally get around that delta they've been talking about. The wind was supposed to have cooled down a bit to under the 20s and just like expected - our journey started with a smooth 17-19 knots of breeze from the West, making for a perfect ride in close reach, average speed on 6.7. Soon we got hit by gusts up to the 30s and we decided to reef the main, just to notice that the wind kicked up even further. 32. 34. 36. I was getting all excited of the surprising adrenalin rush, the butterflies that I've been waiting for were finally back. I was desperately trying to wipe the salty water from my face to be able to see something and at the same time I was begging for the wind to stay some more. But when the main was on first reef, the genoa furled around 20% and we both were prepared for more of it - it all stopped. From 35 it went down to 28, to 24 to 20 and all of a sudden our speed got stopped by a wave and the wind was down to 12 knots. What the fuck happened? Where did it all go, so quick? Please come back wind, we're far from being finished with you! 

Those schizophrenic times, which quite often happens on the sea or in relation to it, provides equally strong sense of confusion and contrast as when you've been out in seriously rough weather, when you're totally beaten up by high seas and strong breeze, and then entering a quiet harbor where people are slowly and happily strolling around - totally clueless of the wildness that's going on, just some meters away from them, around the corner of the harbor entrance. The contrast of the two worlds are sometimes so definite that it becomes hilarious and many times I've wanted to scream to non-sailing people in the marina: Do you have any god damn idea of what is going on out there!!? 

The sea and the waves and the wind and the water - the more days that pass of aboard living and sailing, the more I fall in love with them all. This relationship I have to them, like many other sailing-loving people also have, is so passionate and raw and harsh and totally fulfilling - that I could never imagine to live without it again. Although it took some years of my life to enter this new world, I feel so incredibly blessed that Alex introduced it all to me, now for one year ago. Better late than never, like they say.

In the middle of the rush and excitement last night, I remember I was screaming to Alex: Next boat we'll have must be a faster one, please!!! Let's see if we one day can afford to upgrade to the beautiful Hallberg Rassy 40, that would have been the ultimate boat for us in terms of both having the possibility to ride harder weather in greater speed, and at the same time have the most perfect live-aboard boat for comfort, safety and style. 

Until then, Caos will be our faithful friend through loads of more of excitement on the sea. I am, by the way, truly impressed by her ability to move this gracefully as she actually does, with all this extra weight we've collected for our tour.

P.S: Don't forget to check out our progress on the tracker. We just left Vinaròs and are now on our way towards Cap de la Nau, 110 n miles from here.

/Taru

Sailing celebrities and German news

The Germans seem to be fast on the hot news. Again have the famous Segel Reporter published an article about our little world tour and summed up some information about us and the controversy we've created - and they're even taking it as far as calling us sailing celebrities - an interesting new epithet in our lives for sure.

Read more here, in German. Or translate it to (almost perfectly understandable) English here
And don't miss the slideshow with the very amusing subtitles for gods sake!

Far away from it all

The forecast is not to be trusted in this area, also called the Mediterranean, that is something we learnt for a long time ago. Although the Costa Brava coast in the Northern parts of the Med might be even one step ahead in unpredictability. The 20-25 knots of wind we were looking forward to were instead something around as little as 12, and from a total different direction than predicted - but nonetheless it was a beautiful day and night. A very calm and flat sea where our Caos sailed along in a smooth and peaceful pace.
Astonishing world, what have we done to deserve your beauty.
Safe sailing with my Sperry Top Sider performance shoes on and the ultimate Sailing Manual at hand. 
Many times when on land, when in company of people - normal people/the others - I can sit and wonder what the hell are they talking about? Where is the substance, where is the interest in true things and why don't you talk about/feel/ask for something real? Why are people not interested in neither being true to themselves or to indulge in genuine things? Things that could bring out their true selves. Something that has a real meaning instead of all that crap and nonsense and hunger for a perfect, yet fake, image or the so called ideal way of living - things that most people seem to occupy themselves with day in and day out. I've been for long time longing for something more real and profound and every time I have got too close to too much of BS I've luckily been fast enough to cut it off from my surroundings. The falsehood and the lack of truthfulness and brutality in this world have always disturbed me immensely. So it was about time to take the step over to the real side of life. And this is it. As simple as it might look, this is as close to the reality you can come. The nature and the sea is so brutally honest and real and without any type of superficiality, that it has got me addicted. I'm not even going to try to imagine how much closer this journey will bring me/us with the nature, each other and the honest and raw reality that is to be found out there - and how far away it will push us from the other side. Just leave me to soak this beauty in now and ask me the same question in a year or so. This is what I call the meaning of life. 
This is real. 
This is real. 

One other thing that, unfortunately, also is reality. Is that our engine just failed.. Just in the moment when we mentioned "oh, everything on this boat is perfectly new and freshly replaced, except the engine" - we found a larger leakage of oil coming from it. But that's how it is, I guess. Machines are as unpredictable as the weather, especially when depending on an original Volvo Penta MD 21 b from 1982... Let's just now hope that this will not be a tremendously expensive repair. Will get back with updates later on.

/Taru

Off we go

Goodbye Cambrils, we're now on the sea again. Finally some fresh crispy air, salty water in our face and a bit of action in our lives again. Good change from the quiet marina life we had the last couple of days. Let's see how far we get today.

Adios for now! /T&A

(And no, we're not sponsored by Helly Hansen, although that would have been very nice)

Moving on



Here's a bit of our plans. As you can see, there is some heavy winds going on out there and it is predicted to last for the next 24-36 hours or so, in various constellations. We have checked off some more things from our to do list here in Cambrils and the plan is now to make a 20 miles jump further down South, and dock up somewhere just before the delta. At the moment there's 20-25 knots of wind blowing from West and we will be sailing close hauled if we leave asap so those 20 miles should go pretty quick if there's not too much of waves, here above the delta. It's a bit rainy and grey today but we figured that we would rather take off in these conditions than having to stay here for too long. We're now ready for some action anyway. 

We're hoping to be able to pass the delta maybe tomorrow night and thereafter proceed with the blue route, first to Valencia to pick up the new wind generator as ours doesn't work like it should. From there we'll be rounding the Cap de la Nau and moving on with the another leg towards Cartagena - before the last route towards Gibraltar.

/Taru

One ol' habit gone

Probably not a very healthy breakfast: This thick chocolate and fried churros, but who cares, the bikini season is a couple of weeks away from us anyway. It is really getting freaking cold over here in Spain. Need to get away asap. Morocco, where are you? 

FYI, today is a huge day. Yes I lost my precious Blackberry some months back, but I got a hold on a new one, so obviously I had my number and a phone/bbm connection working since then. But today is the day when I decided to cut off the line and go totally mobile free. This will be interesting. I figured that I will need to get rid of a couple of old habits, so better to take them one by one instead of all in a big boom. Phone goes today, and the freedom of using the Internet when I want - will disappear from my hands after we'll leave the Canaries (Spanish wireless dongle will stop working after this). This is by the way the reason to my neurotic use of this blog, lately. Can't you feel I'm desperate to blog... all the time? (The blog will still remain the same though, I can still update it through sat connection)

This phone thing is probably a tiny step for the humanity but sort of a big step for me - and this time I'm doing it totally willingly. Hallelujah!

/Taru

Watermakers and survival skills

He is a hard working man, this sailor of mine. It is 12 pm on a Sunday night and he's been up since 9 this morning. He's been working and working and working on this boat barely without a break for the last fourteen hours. And still he's on it, late on a Sunday night. Although I would love him to be inside with me, drinking some wine and chilling down after a busy week and weekend, I am impressed by his endurance. If there is something that I admire about him, it is his ambitiousness, the commitment, focus and obviously also all his skills in tons of areas. Not only do I trust this man's ability to take us through hard times and through storms on the sea, which he already experienced a couple of times before, but also I've understood that he has the skills and knowledge to build us a home and even a boat with his bare hands, if that would ever be needed or wanted. These are some of the things that money can't buy and what I find incredibly attractive. /T

More installations

Inspection plates in plexiglass are now designed, cut out and mounted inside of the water tank. Looks amazing and also it feels very good to have cleaned that dirty little place. Still need to repeat the cleaning process a couple of times before it's perfectly fresh. Alex will also shortly start the installation of the second water tank, which will be connected to our new watermaker. We're very excited for the possibility to have enough fresh drinking water for our longer ocean crossings. Not to mention the ability to take fresh showers, every day! /T

A super calm day aboard s/v Caos


Not much action on the sea lately, but this is how it can look like - on one of the most quiet days on water. This video pretty much sums up the feeling and tempo of our life at the moment. Slow and easy, no stress and hurries. Just going with the flow, taking the days as they come, sailing shorter legs, working on some projects here and there and mentally preparing for the big adventure we are having in front of us. Which will be starting for real once all installations are done and we have gotten out of the Mediterranean. /T

Cambrils

The passport has been found! It was in one of the pockets in Alex's jacket. A jacket which he barely wear, but had on for some days ago. For some reason I had given the passport to him to guard after we picked up something from the postal office. So let's partly blame him for this disappearance, no? Thank you all for your help in this drama. I guess John Butler was the one with the nearest solution, so we'll welcome you aboard one day if our paths would ever cross!

We have just arrived to Cambrils by the way. Not very far from Tarragona where we today started, but we've decided to take it slow until we have fixed what has to get fixed. At least we're doing a tiny bit of progress further down South every day, and at the same time we have enough time, each day, to do some work on the boat. We do not want to get stuck in too rough weather or head out on longer passages before a couple of important things are done on the boat. Such as the final work on the teak, the reinstallation of the air generator, the inspection plates for the water tank, the final mounting of the toe rails and the installation of the watermaker. We're taking it easy here in Cambrils tonight, working a couple of hours tomorrow morning and then leaving a bit further down after lunch. There is a mistral expected from tomorrow onwards underneath the Delta del Ebro, so I guess we'll have some time to just stay around on this stretch of coast for more boat projects for the next couple of days. We're not in a hurry and finally we're both starting to feel a bit more harmonic and peaceful - now when we're having all the main stress behind us. There is actually not much things we need to worry about at the moment and there's also no schedules to adjust to. We're just happy if we reach the Caribbean before New Year, that's all. The passport issue solved itself in the end - like most things do in life and we are incredibly happy for that.

Now: a light dinner, some wine and falling asleep to some sweet reggae dub tunes.. Good night y'all. /T

Shoot me

Once again I've made the impossible possible. I have lost my passport! I can swear it is inside of the boat somewhere as we both recall it was on the chart table just some days ago. We've been searching all over the boat, lifted all things out a couple of times and back in again but we just can't seem to find it anywhere. Either it is hidden somewhere where we can't find it, or it has gone out in some of the trash bags? Although the latter sounds like nonsense. Who could possibly be so abstracted? Me? Well... A control freak most of the times, always making sure things are in order and well organized, yet extremely clumsy at the very same time. Figure that contradiction out, someone.

Anyone clairvoyant reading this blog? I am desperate. The one who brings in the best tip leading to a reunion with me and my passport, will be honored with a day of sailing with us, aboard Caos. Now help me please!

It is covered by a black leather case, saying PASSPORT on it, if that is of any help. Ha!
Thanks in advance.

/The mess