This is the real shit

Thank you all wonderful people for your comments and tips regarding my hair. Very nice hearing from you females, sometimes I almost forget there are women reading as the comment forms here usually are dominated by men. Please comment more often girls.

I know that it is very bad for the hair to bleach it but it is also not very healthy to treat it with black/dark dye as I've done for many years now. The thing is that I need to decolorize the hair once and for all and from there I can easily go back to my natural hair color. I'm sick and tired of having to deal with the color treatments every month so a bleach is the quickest way to have it all solved. And no, to leave it as it is is not an option, although that might have been the healthiest one. So today when we went to shop groceries in the small supermarket here in Les Saintes, I found what I've been dreaming of for weeks. It was very odd to find it there in between afro shampoo and coconut oil but there it was, waiting for me. Blue and yellow package reminding me of Sweden and all. And how in the world could one resist this something with the very suitable name Nordic Blonde? This package brought instantly back so many memories. Oh my how many of those I have put into my hair when I was 13-17 years old while listening to Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Anouk and Skunk Anansie in my messy teenage room, although the bleaching brand we used at that time was MOOD and not Schwarzkopf.

Wish me luck now and let's hope my hair doesn't fall off after the fourth treatment that I put my hair through in a very short period of time. And this time it is nothing but a hard core hydrogen peroxide totale that I will be dealing with. I'll keep you posted on the development. /T

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Hair problem part 359

So I was really looking forward to get back to a natural blonde/light tone - but I can't seem to get there. The permanent black and/or dark brown dye which I have put into my poor hair month after month, year after year is refusing to let go of the lengths and the bleaching products you can find on these islands are way too ineffective and can't do almost nothing on the strong pigments on the black hair. For some reason they do not sell the hard core kind of bleaching stuff one can get a hold on in any supermarket in Scandinavia and so I am stuck here with this terrible mixed color. You might say I should go to a hairdresser but honestly I do not enough trust the island hairdressers to do it perfectly right, mainly because they are used to ethnic hair here and not to my fragile, ash colored Scandinavian - and also I am a sea gypsy now and want to be as self sufficient as possible. I need to take care of this shit myself. After three times of bleaching it with the bleaching products I've found here on these islands, this is now how my hair looks. Ok, the black is starting to get a bit lighter and slowly transforming into some kind of chocolate brown, and the roots (and ends) are now obviously too orange/yellowish and I should keep any bleaching creme out of them for a while in case I do not want it all to fall off. The question now is, should I continue treating the dark lengths with more bleach or what should I do. Any hair/color experts reading? What do I do with this fucking mess? /Taru

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Rainy in Les Saintes

We arrived to the islands of Les Saintes in Guadeloupe around 6 am this morning. Tired from the first over-night passage in a while, we passed out straight after anchoring up in the bay. Slept for some hours and are now up and about to check out the main island. Very lovely, unfortunately though it is still raining and will most possibly do so for five more days, according to the weather reports. So we'll spend some time with what we do best: trying out the local food, snacks and drinks. Maybe we'll have a longer walk around the island later on, or perhaps we just lock ourselves in with fresh movies, chips and peanuts.. Mmm.. this island life is almost too easy at times. J'adore. /T

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Early morning in St Pierre

This is the Mt Pelée volcano which erupted and destroyed the whole city of St Pierre in 1902 and killed almost all of the population of 30.000 people. Before the eruption, the city was called the "Paris of the Caribbean" and was the commercial, cultural and social center of Martinique. 

We had a very brief stay here in St Pierre and are now on our way up towards Guadeloupe. Bad weather and a bit rainy today so we'll pass on the stop in Dominica for this time. Rainforests and waterfalls are best enjoyed when it's sunny. 75 miles to go to Les Saintes today, hoping to have some sun for island exploration tomorrow. I feel like snorkeling!

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On the sea again

First stop: Anse Mitan some 20 miles away from where we started. We left our berth in Le Marin so late yesterday that we felt like ducking into a convenient anchorage pretty close by for the night. Today was the first time since we arrived to Martinique that we slept to as late as 9 am. Every part of your body and mind gets fatigued by the movements of the boat and the natural exercises one are doing while sailing exhausts many of your muscles. This being the first time we sail and tack this much with our Caos for six weeks and the first time sailing in a long time makes you always very very sleepy. Sailing is a fantastic way of keeping your body in balance and I don't know of any exercise form which allows all of your muscles to work simultaneously in such an efficient way - and for many hours in a row.

We had some company on our way to the anchorage last night. A big pod with adults and small babies. Always a pleasure to get visited by the dancers of the sea. Today we'll be off again and as we've decided to take it easy for the next few days, we will be making a few stop here and there before we arrive to Guadeloupe. Maybe the volcanic city of St Pierre and perhaps we will also pay a visit to the rainforest in Dominica. Let's see.

So now when we're back on the sea again, remember that we won't be able to answer much emails and comments as when we were locked up on land like in the last couple of weeks. We are now back to how we love it - on the sea and closer in touch with the nature, far from Internet and communication with the rest of the world. Our satellite broadband serves us only for important weather reports, a blog post every now and then and also for possible emergencies.

To follow our route when you don't hear from us, you can always check in on this Spotwalla link or on the sidebar here to the right.

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Next move

Finally the package have arrived and we can continue with our travels. At one point it felt like we would never get away from Le Marin, Martinique, but luckily that wasn't the case. What is so amazing with this cruising lifestyle is that you are free (as long as you don't wait for necessary deliveries that is) to go wherever you wish, point your bow to whatever direction you feel like and choose whichever fantastic beach, anchorage or harbor in whatever country you'd like to bring yourself, your home and all your precious belongings. I don't know if you guys who doesn't sail can imagine this, but just the fact that you're having your complete wardrobe along with you on each of your travels is incredibly convenient. And your own bed, your own kitchen, your own everything is with you and makes your life comfortable, safe and secure - wherever in the world you might want to drop the hook.

The immense sense of freedom is definitely the best thing that we gave ourselves when we casted off from Barcelona for five months ago. Just like I earlier mentioned, there are a few times and periods when one miss things from the past, (especially when you find yourself locked up like we did in this last week) but that goes with every life change I assume. No matter how bored one can feel for a second or two every sixth week or so - there are still absolutely nothing, nothing which beats this life we have chosen as ours. The endless amount of possibilities we have when choosing how to and where to live each and every day, every second of our lives is the greatest of gifts we have given ourselves and each other.

So today we have tied up to the dock again to finalize some last details on the boat before we can change place, country and island again and move on up North through the Caribbean sea towards Antigua with a first stop in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe. We will be leaving Martinique tomorrow morning and I can't with words describe how much both me and Alex have been waiting for getting out to sail our dear Caos on the ocean again. And now when the new satellite device is back with us, we'll make sure to bring you all along with us on the tour. 

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Today's chicken

This is one dish we eat quite often in our home. My quick version of the southern French chicken dish Poulet à la Provencale. Normally you should cook the chicken in the oven for around 40-60 minutes but if you're in a hurry or don't want to spend the whole day cooking and cleaning, this way works too.

Fry garlic and one medium sized blonde onion in butter. Add salt, pepper, herbs de Provence and two tablespoons of white wine, mix well, boil for a minute or two and set aside while frying the chicken. Pan fry the chicken thighs in butter and make sure to give them a golden, crispy hue. Add salt and pepper. When chicken's golden all around, toss in the onion, wine and spice mix, add chopped tomatoes and red pepper, probably some more salt and a teaspoon of maizena wheat or whatever sauce thickener you prefer. Make sure to not throw the wine mix on top of the chicken to save the crispy part from getting moist. Crispy is the way we want it. Leave it all to boil on medium heat under lid for around 20 minutes. Serve with white rice. 

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Are we friends yet?


Don't forget to add us to your friends list on Facebook -  this is where you'll get our most recent news and take part of other stuff like voting for which will be my next (crochet) bikini and other life necessary things..

See you there!


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The transition between two worlds

So I had some wine last night. I was so excited for the fact that we will be leaving from this beautiful island but quite boring anchorage/marina (where we've stayed for over a month now) very soon, so I had two (large) glasses of wine in less than 30 minutes and got so drunk that I almost fell asleep during a conversation. What a fucking amateur. Alex was happy though "You are so cheap to handle nowadays", he proclaimed. "Two glasses of cheap red wine compared to all the champagne, tequila and other bullshit you needed to get started when I met you for 1,5 year ago" - well, that might be true, I definitely don't have the same flow as before that's for sure. What happened? When did I grow up? Just for one-two-three years ago you could find me out dining, wining or partying 3-5 times per week from the most glamorous dining rooms on the planet to the darkest of underground clubs in Beirut, Berlin, Ibiza, Barcelona enjoying life with crazy beloved people from late nights to the early mornings and sometimes even longer and now it seems like such a distant time. The life of today is such an enormous contrary to how I lead my life before that I sometimes have hard to grip the reality and the transition in between. Alex might be extremely good for me, just like I am good for him for many different reasons, but sometimes I wonder how he did it. Did he hypnotize me or what happened, really? Did he somehow, discreetly force me into this beautiful salty rehab and how? How could we be able to change each others (extreme) lives so tremendously? 

Just like one reader pointed it out, it is now time for me and us to define the difference between them two worlds - the true, important and fulfilling and the beloved nonsense - and balance them two in a comfortable way. That is probably the most difficult thing with this circumnavigation and this distant life we have chosen to live. The separation from the other side and the distance to the people involved in each of our previous lives. Being two quite extreme human being both of us, it is not always as easy as it might seem although we're learning to live with it. 

Well, well... enough with philosophical ramblings about the balance of life for today. I better start practicing on the drinking part for the next few days to begin with so I don't end up wasting the party once in Antigua. And if any of you guys are there and you see us walking home around 10 pm, do not get surprised. It's just me failing in keeping myself awake, again. /T

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Antigua, be prepared

Finally it looks like that damn satellite device is on its way. Not a day too late. I am really sorry but I have still not learnt how to wait for certain things in life. Might be I will learn with time while cruising, might be I will always nearly freak out when I have to wait for things that I do not want to wait upon - time will tell. No in fact, I am pretty sure that I will never learn to accept the fact that companies with slow customer service will keep me waiting when we have a world out there to discover.  

Last couple of days I have been so restless and anxious to move that I haven't been able to stop thinking of anything else than the departure from Martinique. Can we just fucking leave yet? And oh, party would be the other thing that have occupied my mind. My brain has constantly sent out short but strong vibrations and screaming sounds such like: party!! alcohol!! lets go crazy!! dance all night!! and other things one could occupy oneself with under the influence of alcohol etc. Not perfectly sure of if it's all this waiting that makes my brain go completely bananas or if it's simply that I'm definitely in need of a real, bombastic hell of a party? I know my people around the world wont believe me, but it was five months since I last put my highest heels on and went out for an all-nighter. Did you hear what I just said? 5 months? What's that, a fucking eternity? Alex is the more stable one and a bit more balanced of us two but luckily he is also the most understanding man at the same time and have promised me a wild night in Antigua as soon as we get there. So, all I have to say for today is: Can we leave already? And a double cuba libre on that one p l e a s e. /T

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In the mangrove

Mangrove - the constellation of trees and shrubs which grow in many tropical, salty parts of the world are fascinating and beautiful. They are found in coastal environments protected from high energy wave action and what might just look like intimidating bushes and branches in a wild mixture with an inviting wetness calling for mosquitos and creeps to perfectly establish themselves, are in fact more interesting than that when you get into them for real. These botanical amphibians which has one foot in the air, one under water are particularly fascinating for the fact that they can stand the very high level of salt in the water, the choking mud in which they grow along with the tropical heat surrounding them - all features which wouldn't let most other plants to stay alive for too long. Mangrove forests are among the most productive and biologically complex ecosystems on earth as they make an important home to many different bird species, frogs, snakes, shellfish and loads of oysters, shrimps, several type of fish and millions of mangrove crabs. The trees form a beautiful saline woodland, or a swamp if you prefer, and the perfect braiding of branches and trees are spectacular. The trees also have a complex root system which allows them to survive in the intertidal zone and the special ultrafiltration system helps them to keep most of the salt out.

From a sailors perspective, the mangroves in the Caribbean can also be useful and the strength and stability of the woodland habitat is often used to tie up sailing boats to save the boats from hurricanes running through the area and this is how it could look:
You just simply run your boat straight into the swamp and tie it up in different trees and branches. Very convenient.

The first photos are taken close to Petite anse des Salines and the two last ones are from Le Marin Martinique, an anchorage which is said to be a safe place to leave your boat during the hurricane season. It's a hurricane hole, as they call it.

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The coffee miracle

Coffee's definitely getting better for each and every day with the new espresso machine. We're both more than satisfied with the breakfast development since this machine came into our lives. And it is so damn stylish! I would also like to point out what an extremely quick delivery Londinium accomplished for our machine. It was with us within three days from London and their personal service and enthusiasm is exactly how you would wish all companies to treat their clients. +++++ for the machine, the service and the assistance in how to make the best out of the machine. How I love dealing with brands, companies and people who know what they are doing, are efficient in their methods and perform what is promised. Quality all the way through. This machine is what I believe, the best one out there for the cruiser who values real coffee and want to find a comfortable and easy way to have it made. The machine might have a bit higher price tag than the regular percolators or moka machines but then again, this one makes real espresso and as far as I know, there is only this machine to get it done onboard a boat without using electricity. /T

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The Caribbean dogs

Look at my little hairy friend underneath my seat. He's resting here in the shadow on the open harbor café where I use to hang out with my laptop. Sometimes I have as much as three dogs under the same couch, making it impossible to put my feet on the ground. Sweet. On these islands there are dogs running around everywhere. In many areas, especially in St Lucia as what we've seen, the dogs are getting badly treated by local kids and elders who hit them hard and throw things on them when they pass them by on the streets. Some say it is a remaining behavior from inherited memories from the colonial times when the dogs were better treated and higher valued than the african slaves. The dogs were the ones who guarded the white men's sugar plantations and when slaves intended to flee, they were hunted down with dogs and got killed. The uncomfortable treatment of the dogs seen on the streets of today might hurt to observe coming from a Scandinavian/European country where dogs are our friends and family members, but I also understand that all things have their own reason and have to have their own natural cycle. Can't change deeply ingrained behaviors like those in one day. Here under my seat they are more than welcome though. /T

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Postcard from Carib

Some of you love them, a few of you hate them but either way it was a very long time since there was a bikini pic featured on this blog. Six long days ago, to be perfectly precise.

So with this simple postcard we would like to wish you all a very pleasant weekend, wherever you are in the world.

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One night in St Lucia




We're glad that we have had the chance to revisit St Lucia at various occasions while waiting for deliveries etc as that island has much more of cultural entertainment and a somewhat warmer evening ambiance to boast with than Martinique. Martinique might be interesting for several other reasons but for getting in touch with the local culture, devouring in musical experiences and to reach the core of the identity of a state, St Lucia has shown to be much more fulfilling. Here's two short clips from one of those nights in St Lucia. Amazing drummer, that old man, isn't he? /T

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