Just another season in Antigua

Locals are preparing their goods and making themselves ready for the high season. Empty market places have got new cement floors and the stalls are being filled with colorful clothes, jewelry and what else that tourists might be looking for on their vacation to this "historical and tropical destination". It is funny to see the differences of each of the two seasons. These more touristy places of Antigua - English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor - are quiet and almost dead in low season as most of the locals are living in villages outside, and slowly slowly it will all be changed into a mass tourist destination full of American, Italian and British tourists, served by those mentioned locals from other places of the island. In the beginning when we arrived here we loved the place and almost could imagine to move up on one of those hills here one day. Now when we have experienced it closely for a couple of months in varied seasons, we can easily say that we wouldn't go on with that thought. It's not that we don't like the place as it is still as beautiful as always, but it is the apparent distance between locals and expats, the overly commercial feeling and sadly the lack of authenticy that we are not too fond of. 

Green Island and the whole area of Non Such Bay remain as our favorite destinations on the island of Antigua for its natural atmosphere and the remoteness to (almost) all things commercial, as well as some of the smaller local villages inside of the island.

There's always two sides of a coin

The differences and changes of one nights sky to another never cease to impress me. This moment was almost surreal in its marvelous beauty and quietness. You know that moment when you begin to question those incredibly naive and childish things like how we human beings are able to fight, stress our way through life or occupy us with anything destructive when there is such magnificent beauty around us that could heal our poor souls if we just opened up our eyes and got closer to the real things in life. No matter how cliché, I truly believe that a closeness to nature makes us more humble and somehow manages to soften us as human beings if we only are open to that kind of change.

And, of course, the proximity to the quiet nature could also drive you completely crazy when you're fed up with soul searching, finding your inner peace and all that crap. Living on a boat and sailing around the world gives you a lot of time to go through both those contradictory emotions and many nuances in between. One day you marvel at all that beauty and tranquility that gives you so much fulfillment and you ask yourself why you haven't always lived this close to the nature, next day you wanna pull your hair out because everything is so.very.fucking.peaceful and you swear to god that on next island you'll jump off at you'll locate the busiest bar in the neighborhood and get yourself as drunk as humanly possible to forget how much you miss your friends and something crazy happening around you. But that's just to get used to. We can't always have everything we want at the same time, can we. Until I find the magic formula I'll continue to enjoy the sunsets best I can - sometimes while drunk and pathetic, but most of the times happy with the greatest sense of thankfulness for all what we get to experience on this journey of a lifetime. The sail across the South Pacific will for sure be an even greater mental challenge for us both.

Will this be the color of the South Pacific Ocean?

Earlier this year in Tobago Cays
Just need to watch out for those Cannibals when/if we get to Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas. Thanks Dawn for the link.

Morning again

This is how a regular morning looks from Alex's perspective. A well made espresso, reading a book about boats, mechanics or travel destinations while the sun slowly rises behind the mountains.

I am on the laptop already in this moment, writing or editing away while we together plan the day or discuss how to to do this, how to solve that. Most of our time is dedicated to work and missions at the moment. You know all those things we need to have done before our Christmas/New Years holiday in St Barts, and other stuff that needs to get sorted out before we move on towards the South Pacific in next year. God, I know I've been repeating myself a lot lately but man are we anxious to get moving towards new horizons. Asia and the Pacific Ocean are parts of the world which we've dreamed of to conquer for a very long time now. Not as nervous for the ocean crossing part as we've now done ocean number one already, but we are much more excited for the arrival on the other side, than what we were when we were about to arrive to the Caribbean. The South Pacific seems to be much more remote, less commercialized, more secluded and ... interesting, in another way. Currently reading up on what islands and what societies in Polynesia, Melanesia and perhaps also Micronesia that we must put on our to-go-list. And then we got all the beauty of South East Asia after that... I suspect if we get to the other side safe and sound, we will probably be staying there for many years to discover those intriguing parts of the world.

Have any of you been sailing or traveling in the South Pacific and if so, which ones are your preferred areas/islands? 

End of an era

So this is the photo that Alex likes to call the sailing giraffe.. Anyways, great that my hair is almost back to my normal original shade don't you think? Feels very good not having to dye my poor scalp any longer. Can you imagine what a damage you do to your hair, dyeing it every month for say, ten-fifteen years? 
Was just checking through the different stages of my decolorization process that I've been hustlin' with this past year. From the black I had lived with for a few years to an unidentifiable orange/yellow shade to some sort of blond and then I threw in a chocolate brown toner to finally after a few weeks be back with (almost) the shade that I was born with. Not quite at the end of this story yet but thinking that the sun and salt water will be able to deal with the rest and even it out a bit more. I know it is sad that we're almost at the end of this entertaining hair documentary but life goes on, doesn't it.

Which color was your favorite?

Weekly supply

Loving the fact that you're able to get your needed vegetables, fruits and herbs literally straight from the ground and the trees here on these lush, green West Indian islands. We have one friend here in Antigua who harvests his own garden and delivers a colorful bag of our favorite produce once/twice a week and it is always full of amazing fragrances and flavors.

This time he got us some yellow lime fruit, one large avocado, lemon grass (making my own amazing lemon grass tea) and fresh basil with flower. Boat smells wonderful with all this beauty around.

Updates

As you might have noticed, I have added some link icons on the sidebar to the right. Hope this helps to locate your favorite posts. Not every blog article are where they suppose to as yet, working on it.

Also I have recently added new info to the page that I'm usually super late and lazy at updating, "Where are we?"

Check out what exactly we're up to here in Antigua and what are our plans for the nearest future :HERE:



Before the night falls

Moon is shining bright tonight. Always a mission to try to capture it through the lens.

Opening soon...


Docked

It is very seldom that we see our boat from this perspective nowadays, we price conscious sailors wish to keep our precious dimes for other things in life than expensive marinas and when there are as many good anchorages around here in the Caribbean as there are, we rather spend our time with the hook firmly dug into the ground. But sometimes, like this week when there has been absolutely zero wind for the past five, six days, we take the opportunity to get to the dock to top up our batteries. For you non sailors reading, it is the sunshine/solar panel and wind/wind-generator that keeps our refrigerator, lamps, laptop batteries, water heaters, water pressure and other electric things going and without either sun or wind or sometimes both, it becomes quite hard to live a "normal" life. Since we almost never use our engine to charge our batteries and we hate the sound of the generator, we try to limit our electricity use as much as possible to not have to dock the boat too often. In the Mediterranean while we still had regular incomes, we used to spend maybe 80% of our cruising nights in marinas, nowadays I would say that we spend not more than one night per month, sometimes only once per two months. Lots to learn from this liveaboard life, to save money wherever we can is definitely one of the most important things to get used to. 

Sunday lunch on the boat

We have just found a new (well for us at least) mega market which stocks everything one could be in need of. Good, fresh meat is not an easy thing to get a hold on here on these smaller islands usually as most of it is frozen but this Epicurean market N of St Johns had it all. Besides of different types of onions and cheeses that I've been on the search for, special bread, European chocolate and lots of other things - we also got home with some good pieces of tender and juicy angus beef. What better lunch on a Sunday than a medium rare angus beef, mashed potatoes mixed with philadelphia cheese and pan fried shallots, a gravy sauce with thyme, tons of butter and cream and a flavorful feta cheese and tomato salad on the side? Freakin' delicious.

Slow Saturday movement and dancehall favorites

Time moves slowly this weekend. Beach, ice cream, planning for the great escape (to the Pacific next year), reading books and just taking it easy easy easy.... sometimes it is almost hard to deal with the vast amount of time we got on our hands but this weekend it has only been a pleasure to do nothing.

Listening to this one tonightGetting much influenced by the surroundings. Dancehall is what is on day and night everywhere you go, on these islands. And here's another wicked Jamaican tune if you're in to that kind of stuff.

Montpelier Plantation Inn

Welcome to the fine world of Relais & Chateaux. Anyone who have ever stepped into the rooms of a hotel or a restaurant gathered within the prominent collection of Relais & Chateaux properties, knows that there is a certain standard and style that awaits behind this significant sign proudly positioned on the wall. Relais & Chateaux is not a chain, it is rather a fellowship made of independent properties, sharing the same vision and values for hospitality, quality, lifestyle, art de vivre, and cuisine. 500 luxury hotels and gourmet restaurants has carefully been chosen to be included in this group of extraordinary places scattered all over the world, currently in 60 countries. Both prospective and current members are evaluated by the group's traditional five C motto: Caractère, Courtoisie, Calme, Charme et Cuisine and you can be sure to find a great dose of them all on each and every one of these luxurious facilities. The group has an impressive 300 michelin stars among its members and naturally their wide collection of first class properties has become a renowned reference of excellence in the hotel and restaurant world. Gourmet restaurant Per Se New York, is an excellent example of the standards of this group as well as the many beautiful castles, townhouses and other historical properties in Europe and particularly in France - that's where it all started fifty years ago.
Montpelier plantation that we spent a couple of days at is one of seven Relais & Chateaux properties in the Caribbean. Nestled in lush hills on the secluded island of Nevis and built inside and around a 17th century sugar plantation. Many historical features have been restored giving the property a unique sense of timelessness, charm and elegance. The great fig tree is the first thing that greets you when you enter the grounds of this hotel. Impressive and characteristic just like the inn itself. This plantation is also the place where Admiral Lord Nelson married his wife Fanny Nisbet in 1787.
Everywhere around the property you will find beautiful details and ornaments from the past.

The garden is lush, light and refreshing and everywhere you will encounter the sound of birds singing from the trees.

A very well maintained tennis court area with a beautiful setting surrounded by colorful bloom.

We loved strolling around exploring the gardens. Colorful flowers and an abundance of lush green plants and trees.

What instantly struck me on the first few hours of our stay was that certain kind of energy that urged you to slow down, disconnect from the outside, breath in the surroundings and enjoy the quietness. Not many places has that natural power to automatically slow your body and mind.

We spent lots of time enjoying the tranquility by the pool.

The elegant interior was a fresh melange of new and old, classic and modern.

Colorful flowers all around.

A cup of tea while reading one of the many books from the library.

We got so well looked after by the genuine and hospitable staff. Here's bartender Kaddy, and food and beverage manager Nico.

Details by the pool bar.

Modern design and loads of light and airy spaces in rooms and suites. 

Very simple, elegant design throughout.

Beautiful details in the bathrooms.

Relaxing by the private pool.

Sea view from every room and suite.

We loved the afternoon tea by the pool bar with freshly baked scones, cakes and homemade marmalade.

Got served the most amazing apple martini in the evenings before dinner.

Read through the yearly book printed by Relais &Chateaux.

More lounging by the pool.

We enjoyed a healthy breakfast on the terrace. 

With an amazing homemade bagel with Norwegian salmon and creme cheese.
They had two beautiful labradors who every morning came to greet you in the garden.

We rode the bikes down to the hotels beach for a better view of St Kitts in the background.

Drinks in the bar by night.

And lots of fine wines on the menu.

Drank quite some champagne on the night of our anniversary.
And got served the most fantastic gourmet dinner inside of the old sugarmill, just the two of us, in very romantic settings. The seven course meal was too delicious to be mentioned in only a few words so I will write a post separately in honor of it.

We had the greatest stay and we will recommend this place to everyone we know who are looking for a tranquil and classy holiday in the Caribbean. Perfectly suitable for couples or anyone who'd like to enjoy a few days of utter relaxation in beautiful surroundings. Thank you owners Timothy and Muffin Hoffman for being so welcoming and making sure that we had one of the best weekends in a long time. Unforgettable.

This is how our anniversary meal looked like a bit later on.

Click in here to see the hotels website.

Back from Nevis

This photo says it all. It was such a refreshing "holiday" spent over on Nevis. Energizing, vibrant, colorful, peaceful. A life on a boat is fantastic in many ways but to be able to sometimes combine it with the beauty of getting a day off from it all every once in a while is a perfect match and the greatest way of living. At least in our eyes. The sail back to Antigua was quite rough with a beat against the waves, wind, tides and currents (took 19 hours back instead of the 12 it took to get there..) but now we're finally back anchored up and safe. Cooking is not an option tonight as of the very little energy left from last night at sea so we'll get out for a light Italian dinner here in Falmouth/English Harbor this evening. Italian yes, what else? Italians are what runs this place. Should probably be called "Italian harbor" instead of English harbor. I don't mind though, I would never say no to a well made ossobuco, a delightful pasta or a flavorful glass of Brunello di Montalcino. 

Had the best of days

We've been so spoilt and well looked after here by the amazing staff at Montpelier Plantation Hotel these past few days and we are very sorry to leave so soon. Hope to be back again one day. Last nights dinner here at the hotel was absolutely brilliant, fine dining at its very best, will tell you more about that and everything else that we've had the chance to experience in the last three days as soon as we're back with wifi again. Now time to check out..