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Of the two hundred fourteen remarks that we had when we bought Duende, around 65% has already been taken care of by Alex in the past six months since we got the boat. Much of the major things are done such as rebuilding of new bulkheads and re-tabbing of old ones. Shower sump totally redone. Reconstruction of rudder stuffing box. Six new floors are in place. Antifouling painted. Backstay chainplate and redesign of transom done. Leaks at the bow and pulpit been taken care of. Many of the through hulls has been replaced. Cabin topside rebuilt because there were leaks by the portholes. One of the water tanks has been re-glassed as it was leaking. Propane hose replaced. Edge of keel repaired. Bilge pump reconnected and parts replaced. Gaskets replaced, injectors cleaned and an overall inspection of engine is done and now working fine etc etc.

The mast and rig is a major department for itself and had eighteen remarks on our to-do-list in total. All from changing wires, rebuilding of backstay chainplate to replacement of cleats, toggles, blocks and jammers. The backstay chainplate, a few sheets and some toggles has already been changed and we had planned to get to Trinidad to sort out the rest. You see, many of the things on this boat does work ok, no larger concerns to talk about, it's just that life could get easier if fittings and equipment were either larger, newer or better functioning. We would also probably sleep better if all standing rigging were replaced although it hasn't proved to be in urgent need of it. It's a forty year old boat we have chosen after all, and some of the fittings has been here since day one or at least for half of that time. The winches for example, they work ok, but except for one smaller one, none of them on the mast are self tailing. You can only imagine the drama to haul the dinghy up on deck. Not to mention the extra strength one needs to put in every time we haul the main. It works, but with more effort than on a new boat, let's put it that way. It's amazing to realize that everything, apparently, was so much more complicated back in the day compared with the new technology of today that we all have gotten used to. 

So back to the rig, when Alex found a new, small crevice corrosion on one of the mast tangs the other day (something neither of our two mast/rig surveys had detected), we decided to not wait for Trinidad but instead stay here to take care of the most important of the concerns. Both the corroded tang and the counterpart on the other side has now been removed, new ones has been produced and they're going to get refitted this weekend. Alex is also busy rebuilding parts of the spreaders as they were slightly rotten by the mast fittings (luckily not more than that), and some other toggles and blocks are being replaced before the mast goes back next week. 

There is an obvious reason to why this boat had been on the market for three years without getting sold. The extensive refit that was needed, quite naturally scared away everyone but Alex. And even though it is a job for ten people, he's been convinced that he can take care of it all by himself. And so far, so good. New improvements are being made daily. I think Alex sometimes thought and wished that I could have been of more help than what I am, but I'm afraid he's doing most of it all by himself with the occasional help from me or from friends at the yard. Some people are interested in boat refitting, others... simply aren't. We have also discovered that it is best for a relationship to stick to the things that we feel inclined to and happy with rather than experimenting too much with each others tasks lol. 

Despite the long to-do-list, we both have a clear vision of how beautiful and amazing this boat will be in only six months/a year, when most things have been dealt with. Given the style, character, sailing performance and the grace this beauty of a boat possess, there's tremendous potential. Very often we're dreaming of the day when we've sailed around the world and finally entering a port on the Southern coast of Italy. A small fishing harbor, sun is rising behind the mountains, covering the area in a golden hue, location and surroundings is perfectly matching the fine varnished wood, bronze fittings on deck and the creme colored hull. That is where we believe this elegant classic yacht with gorgeous lines will be in her true element. Dreams are what keeps humans alive and what makes us go through hard moments like the ones we've gone through since we got this boat. Just gotta keep on fighting for a while longer. And explore the rest of the world with her first, of course.

Now I'm off to bring lunch for my hard working man at the yard before I take the dinghy to the laundromat. As long as I don't need to get physical with wires, bolts and tools on the yard, I'm happy to take care of the rest.

Lolo's: Locally Owned, Locally Operated

One of the things that we love about St Martin/St Maarten is the wide variety this island offers. Not only is the island shared between two countries, divided roughly 60/40 between France and Netherlands, but it is also home to more than 140 different nationalities. Being such a small island, only 34 sq miles (87 km), the island boasts with an utterly interesting mixture to say the least. You'll hear anything from English, Dutch, French, Spanish to Creole and Papiamento being spoken daily around you and if there was a capital island being voted in the Caribbean, St Martin/St Maarten would probably be it. Some of the, for us at least, most interesting things that such an international mixture brings in, is the great variety of food here is to be found.

If you want French gourmet food, you got it. If you feel like a New York city steak and a well mixed cosmopolitan in a bustling international environment you'll find it. If it's a spicy Mexican night you're after, there are tons of options. You got Spanish tapas places, Dutch restaurants, amazing Indians, Italians at every corner.. basically whatever you're after, you will find a way to get it. St Martin/St Maarten is actually very often called the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean. While you might have hard to convince that to the posh people of St Barts, we are ready to throw in our votes. Cause yes it is posh at its parts as well, but not only. It can be modest, but not only that. It is very international yet totally local. It is the mixture that is so unique to this island and you'll find nothing like it anywhere around the Caribbean. 

Great local Caribbean restaurants can be found all across the island, but one location that is a true must (if there are any such things) are the Lolo's restaurants on the French Grand Case. Grand Case is a boulevard on the North Eastern side of the island, right by the beach, where you'll find both the low key tapas restaurants as well as a few fine dining options, smaller nightclubs and bars. Right in the middle of that boulevard is Lolo's located, a collection of a few very simple barbecue restaurants. You sit down by a picnic table, get served the most delicious Caribbean food on plastic plates and eat your meal with plastic cutlery. It's inexpensive and the plates they serve you are always very generous. Grilled chicken, ribs, crab cakes, boudin's, johnny cakes, rice and beans, fried fish, macaroni puddings and all those other typical Caribbean treats. If we'd live here, this is the one place we'd always make sure to bring our visitors. To get a genuine taste of real Caribbean food in a, yes very barbecue smoky, but authentic environment where tables are filled with both international guests as well as the locals. I'm sure we'll find another opportunity to visit before we leave this island..

Can't think of a better thing to do after a long sweaty day at the yard. 

Our dear friend Reg lent his super fast dinghy to us the other day and we went for exploration around the island. Found a tiny little beach in between beautiful rocky hills where it isn't possible to get without a boat or by swimming. The area reminded us very much of Costa Brava, Spain, and even the colors of these photos turned out exactly like back in the day when we used to cruise between Barcelona and Empuria Brava. I guess I used to shoot in similar bad conditions back then before I knew better. Sun straight above the head in overcast weather doesn't make for the best captures. Overlooking that little error, we enjoyed a very nice day snorkeling, swimming and just chilling out in a very quiet location.  Somewhere in the lowlands, in between Baie Rouge and Baie aux Cayes. As we had a few more horsepowers in the back of the dinghy than what we're used to, we could easily end the day by shooting up the coast for a late lunch at Lolo's, the lovely, inexpensive local barbecue restaurants in Grand Case..

So glad you all have started to comment more, love when things are happening in here! Sometimes it has felt as if I'm in an empty room, speaking my mind to the walls. Yet the statistics tells me you are a few thousands reading each day so please keep it coming so that we can get some sort of balance. I feel more inspired to share my/our world with you when I know that someone out there is enjoying the ride, for whatever reason you choose to visit. 

Have a nice Tuesday night all of you. We are going to enjoy the sunset by our friends pool and then some barbecue and wine. A little break in between the boat working hours is always appreciated.. 

When performing the regular mast inspection from the bosun's chair, Alex noticed a small crevice corrosion in one of the cap shroud tangs at the top of the mast. Happy to realize that just a few days before we were supposed to leave, and not by having the whole mast fall down while on the open sea. Mast is now removed and at the yard and we'll be working on replacing fittings and glassing the wooden spreaders (rotten) for a few days. This came at the right time obviously, will feel much better for us to sail off when we know that all has been taken care of. This boat is slowly but surely getting as safe as we want it to be.

Seems like we'll be staying in St Maarten another two weeks.

Just a little sail around the island.. these photos are from Great Bay, Philipsburg, St Maarten.

I know that some of you wanted to see more photos from my extended stay in London a few weeks ago... as you can tell, except for sailing and spending my time traveling with Alex, some of the most important things in my life are friends, food, drinks - preferably combined at all times. During this sailing journey far away from my normal, very social, life, I've realized, in a new way, how much my friends mean to me and it doesn't go a day that I don't miss them. Hopefully they will all be more or less where I left them when I/we decide to move back to civilization after this journey. I guess in order to be able to combine all things in the most comfortable manner, an option would be to sail in the Mediterranean as distance is shorter to family and friends. Let's see if that is where we'll end up once we're done with the circumnavigation. 

Click here if you wish to see how it looked like when I was in Berlin some weeks before London.