So tell me

Good morning dear readers. It is a good morning this morning because it's grey and cloudy. That's great so one can get things done without melting down to a sweaty miserable puddle already before lunchtime. I know my hair looks like a fucking mess and I should dye it asap as it's getting orange again, but let's focus on more important things shall we. While I am out making some errands, why don't you, valuable reader, tell me what is your favorite part of this blog. Content wise I mean. I think I have never asked you, and it could be suitable now in times of change - to know what you keep coming back here for. I know most males prefer boat building and maintenance, but the rest of you. What is the best, and what would you like to read/see more of in the future. Send me an email or comment below. I won't get back to you before I've got opinions from at least fifty different people so do yourself a favor and participate. Also the ones of you that normally do not like to comment, I would appreciate it very very much if you took the time today. Muchas gracias y hasta luego.

Renovating inside and out

You might realize there's some renovation ongoing also on the blog at the moment. Lately I've felt there has been an urge for a change, creatively I mean. I've felt as I've been stuck to my throat with images, colors, advertisement, photos of myself, an endless to-do-list concerning this blog and projects around and an email account piling up towards the sky. I guess also no one has escaped to notice that there has been a good amount of sexy commercial self promotion scattering the first three years of this blogs existence. Much to gain readers of course as this blog is my main income these days and I wanna continue supporting our journey in all the ways that I can so Alex doesn't have to kill his health working with composite work on other boats. But having now established such a faithful following and having been able to work with such fantastic brands that we have and currently are, there isn't much else to be proven. 

In order to not completely throw up over this beloved space on the Internet, I realize I have to cut down a bit on the colorful distracting imprints and impressions. Subtle it a bit. Get back to the basics.

I don't know if you have ever experienced it within yourself, but it so happens sometimes that I get plain tired of myself. Like I wanna cut off everything that is attached to me and escape into simple nothing for a while. I've always been very good at that. Leaving and disconnecting for a lengthy time and I love the sense of freedom and creative strength that it brings. Problem is when you have chosen a job that is not only in others', but also up in your own damn face day in and day out.. I definitely need to cut things down.

I assume the mess on the boat plus being in a marina full of noise, heat and hundreds of other boats around doesn't make it better but still it's been a few months now that my mind's been blocked and I've longed for a change. I've always been in need of a lot of space around me and that's quite contradictory to the fact that I've chosen to live on 30 m2/320 sq ft and sharing large parts of my life with a bunch of strangers. Instead of now closing myself completely or shaving off my hair or such, we'll see where a new minimalistic design might take this. Will let you know when it's ready.

Already breathing easier having removed the colorful banners on the right hand side. How good doesn't a bit of blank white page feel. 

Café del Mar

café del mar cartagena colombiacafé del mar cartagena colombiacafé del mar cartagena colombia
Another place you might want to stop by while in Cartagena is Café del Mar, an outdoor lounge at the top of the western ramparts of the old city. It's not exactly like Ibiza, or what is anyway? but still a nice place for sunset drinks and chill out tunes. The view overlooks the Caribbean sea as well as the beautiful skyline of the Boca Grande district. No place for the ones that care about their hair styling though as the ocean breeze is fiercely violent up there, especially right around the time of sunset. 

Bulkhead up

All plywood parts are ground, grooved and shaped. Here spreading the filler into the grooves. 
Alex chose to carve out grooves in parts of the plywood to achieve a better mechanical bond, particularly in places where it will be hard to glass around. Like on the level of the drawers, as we had no will to dismount and tear apart the whole interior.
Another biscuit joint to bond the existing half bulkhead with the new extension.
Mixing up more filler.
Screwing in place.
And there the whole new bulkhead is up. Almost done now. Now remains only carbon tape and fairing, before painting and a mahogany trim that is going to be installed. More to follow...

Another day just another number

Monday again. A new week doesn't change much for us at the moment as we're still working as hard as any other day during this refit, only difference is that shops are open normally again and we can go and fetch another fan to the boat. It's terribly hot and humid here, feels almost like being in the Middle East. We've been in Colombia now for three weeks in total and it hasn't rained one drop since we arrived. It's funny how probably most of you in Europe and America are wishing for a crisp blue sky and sunshine right now and all we're dreaming of is heavy grey clouds, stormy winds and a torrential downpour. Let's swap, shall we? Also just realized it's my birthday this weekend, how quick time flies when you're having fun. Thirty-one already?

Lunch

While Alex is busy in there turning our cabin up side down, I've got to keep it up on my part of daily domestic tasks. Handing tools, headlamps and more coffee when he needs it. Carrying planks on and off the boat when asked to. And of course preparing a good lunch to keep us motivated throughout the day. So glad I've got my appetite back finally. And also very glad that we have managed to keep the galley area in order despite the mess at the forward part of the boat. We have now completely closed that front section so that no wood dust gets out of there and I could, if I wanted, pretend as if there's no renovation going on here whatsoever. Only the sound of the grinder that is spoiling it. At least there's only one part of the boat being worked on as we speak, you should have seen when the complete boat was upside down when we started this refit a year or so ago. 

In regards to the lunch of the day, I've made a fresh summer salad with stir fried chicken with herbs, served with white sticky rice and some sunflower seeds sprinkled on top. It's a challenge to keep eating well while going through times of disorder and renovation. First instinct is always to go out and fetch some easy empanadas or pizza or such but I have been off duty for a couple weeks now due to the virus or whatever that was so I feel more motivated than ever to stay healthy. Just need to get back to my exercise so slowly again, as well. 

Renovations

Some of you have requested a look into our cabin. Here it goes. Cozy, no? So there you have two half bulkheads, one ending by the toilet bowl, the other by the drawers to the right, both connected with a strong beam at the top, but only a thin (and rotten as we found out) floor by the hull. There has also extended an 8 mm/0.3 inch thin plywood plank which was simply attached with five screws, loosely closing the toilet from the cabin but that is now removed. A new strong extension to these half bulkheads as well as a new floor, is being cut and grind as we speak. It will basically be a full bulkhead here when it's done and this little addition will naturally strengthen the boat even more, plus give more privacy to the cabin once it's all set. I will give you more technical details and images a bit later.

It goes without saying that we do not sleep in there at the moment, but instead we're making use of one of our two guest bunks, those that normally fit around 1,5 people each. Very sweet, especially cozy it is to be that close to one another when Alex has again adopted the wonderful smell of fiberglass that has stuck into his pores after grinding parts of the inside of the hull. That familiar smell which is almost impossible to wash away unless you swim in boiling water. Hot water that is such a luxury and not so often encountered these days. But we're pretty happy nonetheless. Last night we were so exhausted though that we both fell asleep in that tiny temporary cabin with the laptop on the stomach in front of this old movie. At least it proved that we are flexible as to where we sleep. Only a couple more days left of this mess now..

Mila

In between tiring and demanding boat projects, we're trying to squeeze in some more pleasurable activities to not forget that we still are human - like visiting local pastelerías. Always on the hunt for the best desserts in town. Mila lays in the beautiful cobblestoned center in between the walls of the fort, and they create the most wonderful cakes and pastries. Much of it of course covered with the delicious dulce de leche that is so widely used in South America. We tried the flan with a generous portion of exactly that on top, as well as a lemon cupcake, both divine. They also have a fresh and healthy lunch menu, and this modern Colombian, French inspired café/restaurant looks to be a great option those days when you want to escape the humid air and burning sun to a fresh and AC-cooled place. 

Slowly transforming

While I am normally busy editing images or reading my Spanish books in the evenings, as a part of my regular every day job and general education, Alex is often glued to his yacht design books or busy drawing new plans for the boat. Many sleepless nights have been spent on his part since we got Duende and still there's a long way to go before we for sure know that this boat is as safe and seaworthy as we need her to be. Why is Alex building new frames, floors and bulkheads you might ask? Doesn't every sailable boat come with them already in place? Yea, one would hope that at least those are where they should, but somewhere along the line of owners since Halsey Herreshoff sold his designed race boat (in which he himself sailed and raced in the mid seventies) - there has been some alterations done by different hands. We've earlier mentioned that the interior is beautiful to look at, but unfortunately while that new joinery was put into place some ten or fifteen years ago, many ribs, frames and bulkheads have simply been cut and removed to make room for new installations. Like I said, the interior looks beautiful at most parts and it's well made from an artistic point of view, but because we want and need a seaworthy boat, these alterations were the first ones on our list to be repaired. 

I have also mentioned before that we have experienced some flexing of the hull while sailing, and that obviously comes from the lack of a solid, strong structure, which was somewhat destroyed by the alterations that have been done in recent years. As you might know, Alex has now spent the first year with this boat restoring the missing bits and pieces. There are the new stringers and frames under the aft cabins. A new chainplate and framing has been added to the transom. During the haul out in Antigua last year, Alex added a few new floors in the mid-section, in front of the mast under the head which I have yet to show you. There are the floors, bulkhead and frames that've been built at the bow, as well as the latest structural addition added under the companionway. This means that most of it is now done and the boat feels stiffer and stronger by the day, but there still remains two very important jobs to be completed before we can fully trust and feel confidence in this boat. One of those are to rebuild the steel mast step, and the other job which Alex just started: to extend the half bulkhead which is in front of the mast in between the head and our cabin, to a full bulkhead to give more stability. There certainly is a big job in restoring this boat to her original glory as well as to add the extra features which slowly transforms this yacht from a light and fast race boat to a, still fast, but also safe and seaworthy offshore cruising boat. I am currently sorting out the photos from the past years refit and will soon show you all steps from the above mentioned work that Alex has put into Duende thus far. 

Such is the life of a live aboard sailor

Ok! Time to get back above the surface. I think I've eaten something really really bad, probably those barbecue sticks from the street in Santa Marta, as my energy level has been lower than I can ever remember, so drained, plus I've been running to the bathroom every fifteen minutes for approximately two weeks. Let me know if you need more details! We have just moved from Club de Pesca to Club Nautico as the water is much calmer here and we're in need of as flat sea with as less distraction as possible for the glassing project of the new bulkhead Alex has just started creating. We have such a long list of things to do before we can safely continue this trip across the Pacific, it's actually ridiculous. This boat is a demanding baby and although we love her to pieces, there are times we wonder what the hell have we taken upon our shoulders. But life was not made to be easy nor always so practical either so we just gotta keep on doing what we have to do and just find some sort of happiness within the process. I will have to speak more with you later as I shall now move out some stuff from the boat. Again. Don't we just love living aboard while going through an extensive refit? Fuck me! At least the hardest part is far behind us, I keep reminding (convincing?) myself.. 

Colombian chocolate

Good but nothing still come close to the quality of the one from Grenada...

Vacation baby

So. Freakin'. Tired. Can't snap out of it. The reason for it could be that we've sailed 1500 miles in the past four months and visited 13 countries/islands in the same short period of time. Or it could just be that the South American heat is just that much unbearable. Whatever it is, my body and mind is being rebellious and doesn't allow me to do anything of what I need or should do, instead they've kicked back and taken vacation from it all. Sounds good to me though, another vacation from the vacation and some quiet downtime for reflection.

P.S: I just realized that all the Facebook likes that we receive each day under each blog post, are only visible when you use .com and none of the other url's that are ending with co.uk , .se or .de or such. In case you're ever curious to see the real likes, be sure to use the .com version of our blogs URL. And to get rid of that little problem I'll have to (finally) make sure to move our blog to our own server and domain. This will also be done as soon as I get my mind put back together again.

Hasta la vista darlings, we're off for a night walk in the city.

From Santa Marta to Cartagena

santa marta colombia sailing coast
Early morning, and we left Santa Marta behind en-route towards Cartagena. It was a calm, sunny morning. We sailed past those gorgeously curved mountains where they cast their shadows down into the sea.
santa marta colombia sailing coast
Santa Marta with the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in the background. It's an isolated mountain range apart from the Andes chain that runs through Colombia. Reaching an altitude of 5700 meters / 18.700 ft above sea level just 42 km from the Caribbean coast, makes this area the world's highest coastal range. You can't see the highest peaks in this image unfortunately.

This particular leg is said to be the roughest part of the passage towards Cartagena due to the mouth of the Magdalena river but we must have timed it in perfectly with the weather gods and other mediums as we had no problem whatsoever. The only thing we noticed was that the color changed to a brown tone while close to the river but other than that, easy and calm.
60 miles later, arriving to a bay called Puerto de Velero, our stop for the night.
spanish mackerel colombia fishing sailing
Just before gybing into the bay, the reel started to run... a nice Spanish mackerel!
Just in time for the sunset, the best time for fishing.
When we arrived we dropped anchor, ate quick and went to bed very early.
Awake again at 5.45 in the morning. Up with the anchor..
Very tired..
They're building a new marina in Puerto Velero. Felt like being back in Spain to be honest, small marinas along the coast, similar sort of mountains, even a mackerel on the hook. Colombia have recently started to invest in yachting and new facilities are popping up here and there.
We were not the only ones up that early.
Underway again. The wind was a steady 28-30 knots and seas had built up to around 12-14 feet.
We surfed along a bit too fast for that sort of seas. Even with a double reefed main we hit speeds of around 9-9,5 knots so we opted to drop the main completely and sail straight downwind with only the jib, occasionally with a single reef in. Speed dropped to around 7-7,5 but we still had well enough time to arrive before sunset, and now we could aim straight towards Cartagena rather than having to gybe all day.
Soon we could see something chasing us in the large waves behind. Just like fast underwater torpedoes they came closer and closer and jumped through the water..
Dolphins! We haven't seen much of them since we bought Duende, so we've been worried that they might not be too fond of that enormous rudder, or maybe the green colour of our hull. But ever since we left the West Indies, we've seen them on almost every passage we've done.
Thank you beautiful animals for joining us and for playing in the waves of our boat!
Fresh tropical fruit as snack... yellow pitaya, lulo, kiwi, mango, banana, granadilla...
Still very windy so an advanced lunch was not to think about.
Quickly fried mackerel from yesterdays catch and some stewed potatoes from last night.
In the afternoon, we could finally see the skyline of Cartagena appearing through the mist of the South American continent. Can you see the skyscrapers in the horizon? It's always an amazing feeling to arrive to a new destination, so much excitement has been built up as the sailing passages are so long in comparison to a journey by flight or car. We've studied the city online and through images for many weeks, yet it is not before now we'll get to know the city with own hands and eyes. I love that tickling feeling, the feeling of a great new adventure at your feet, just about to enfold.
We sailed past the historical part of town.
Wondering where in all that massiveness of those huge buildings to go for dinner tonight?
And the miami-style part of the city, Boca Grande.
 Observing our new home from afar.
We chose to enter through the Boca Grande entrance. Its shallowest part is around 3 meters/9.8 ft, our draft is 2,4 meters/7.8ft. The other entrance, Boca Chica, is a couple miles further South and would've prolonged the journey with approximately two hours so we're glad there was not such a big swell that day so we could enter safely through the first channel... images from Cartagena coming soon.