Preparations

Wish I had some time for the blog as I have many things on my mind that I'd like to share with you, but currently we're busy preparing the boat for a short sail away from these skyscrapers for a few days. Taking this "vacation" very seriously so I have baked bread and two cakes. Precooked and prepared a lot of food. Bought a new big cooler and filled it with lots of good nice drinks. Alex is moving around our things inside of the boat to better distribute weight for a very longed for sail so we're almost done now. Finally going to get some speed under that keel, and finally will we see some palm trees and turquoise water again. Not a day too early I'd say!

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Eagle

Was a little thirsty, thought I ought to stock up. Might come handy for the vacation. Just need a larger cooler.

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Decorating walls

Delighted to be able to start decorating and taking care of the homey aspect of the boat now again that tools and cans are stowed away. I really wanted to put a vintage world map on the wall, collecting pins from our previous stops and our soon to be destinations around the world. But nowhere is one to be found around here. There are maps of Colombia and South America, but neither the paper shops, school or education stores nor antiquarians carry a proper world map. Neither old nor new, it doesn't seem the Colombians want to teach their kids too much about the rest of the world. We've searched for one for two months now. This chart of the West Indies and the Caribbean sea will do for now. It is probably a sign of that we aren't done around here quite yet..

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Safety in Colombia

And here's the view when the boat is swung towards NW. Boca Grande to the left, the Colombian navy base straight ahead. Feeling safe here, having so many nations army surrounding us.

Speaking of safety. So many people seemed concerned when we a few months ago declared that we were going to Colombia, and also that we were staying there for a few months. Why? It's dangerous? Aren't you afraid? Evidently, there is a rumor that Colombia is very dangerous and of course we didn't take that supposition lightheartedly. But when weighting and studying the good and the bad rumors, we realized that the positive reviews and people who've actually had good experiences from the country, overwhelmed the bad. Yes we had heard and read about people getting mugged, drugged, shot and even killed. But we had never encountered anyone who actually had faced these problems. 

Having lived in Spain and Barcelona, you have inevitably been or at least you know someone who's been mugged at least once. And drug rapers are everywhere, I know of people in little Gothenburg, in Dubai where drugs aren't even allowed, in Barcelona, New York and probably in your hometown too - who's been victims of date rape drugs. These things happen everywhere. No city, no place is spared from these sad occurrences. We live in the world, so we must learn to know and accept the world, not be scared of it. Good and evil go hand in hand and if you want one, you can never totally escape the other. It is just up to you to practice the right amount of vigilance and make sure to not put yourself in situations or places, nor surround yourself with people who might mean a threat to your life and personal integrity. To be scared about everything in the world won't help the matter, but conscious planning, education of real facts (and not only propaganda showed in the news), as well as always having one eye open to your surroundings - will keep you out of most trouble.

Of course that means the obvious: Do not get totally wasted alone with strangers. Only collect money from a secure ATM inside of a bank or a mall rather than out on a dark empty street. Walk in lighted and peaceful neighborhoods rather than dark and sketchy ones if you want to be out at night. Do not carry more money than what you can afford to loose. Leave passports and things of value in a safe in your hotel room or on the boat and do not wear startling jewelry in countries and cities where a simple necklace of gold means a monthly income for the natives. Show respect to the local people and learn to know their traditions and manners rather than insisting on expressing your own culture out loud. Use registered taxis, no dodgy versions, and if alone, ask a restaurant or a hotel to call and book one for you rather than hailing them on the street. Don't flash your values nor your money. Don't be too obvious with your expensive camera in rural areas or where there are no other people. If someone would rob you, let them do so rather than fighting against it. 

One beautiful summers morning at 3:00 am, a girlfriend and I was robbed by ten young guys on a lonely dark street in Barrio Gothico in Barcelona. Yes I said ten. I resisted and screamed out of anger, and thankfully for us, we had our lucky starts joining us that night and these boys got away with only a bag. That event made me realize how incredibly lucky we had been. Your life will always be so much worth than a few hundred dollars or a camera in your old leather purse. These things happen everywhere, just be smarter than what we were. We were young, drunk and had taken a dark trippy road we had never been on before. In a way I feel it was our own fault what happened that day, we were simply too careless and allowed ourselves to be vulnerable. Another lesson learned. These days I am naturally more conscious and observant to my surroundings.
In my opinion, Cartagena feels no more dangerous than any other big or medium sized city I've been before. In fact, I've never visited any city or country where I've encountered so many security guards and police men patrolling day and night than here, and that gives a very peaceful impression to the place. We have walked these towns both day and late nights and never ever have we felt any threat. But that's because we walk where we should walk and not where we shouldn't. 

Let's forget what they say in the news and instead have a look at some real numbers and recent statistics. In a recent list of the fifty most dangerous cities, counted by murder rate, neither Cartagena nor Santa Marta where we were previously, makes it to the list. But we have four American cities such as New Orleans, Detroit, Saint Louis and Baltimore listed. This is just to give some perspective, as it is mainly American readers who have expressed their concern about the dangers of Colombia. Now, there are a few Colombian cities on that list too: Cali, Medellin, Cucuta, Pereira and Barranquila. And though they aren't on our list of cities to visit this time around, we would hesitate as much or as little as we would for Cape Town, Panama City, Johannesburg and Kingston - all which are also included in the list. You must also remember that gunshots and murders most often happen either among family members or in between gangs and obviously where there are drugs, there are naturally conflicts of interest. But you are not involved in such conflicts, and thus you shouldn't have to worry too much about other peoples whereabouts.

Kidnappings were earlier a matter of concern in Colombia, but since 2002, both kidnappings and terrorist attacks have fallen 91 percent. As a result of Colombia’s nationwide efforts to improve security, tourism has doubled since 2004 and foreign direct investment has skyrocketed. Despite what many people might want you to think, travelers in Colombia has not been the targets for kidnappings. Unless you are here working for a multinational corporation or CIA or such, your chances of being kidnapped while on holiday in Colombia today are as big as in your own home country.

Then if we look at the number of guns per capita, we all probably know which country leads that list by far. Colombia has only 5,9 guns per 100 residents, compared to 88,8 guns for every 100 people in the US, and roughly 30/100 in Scandinavia. In this crazy world we live in today, there is no real safe place anywhere which is a real sad fact of truth. But we must be wise enough to make our own opinions and stop listening too much on media which is anyway owned and controlled by a wealthy few who has their own personal and financial interests. We mustn't close ourselves in because of fear. Traveling enriches you, fear will always limit you. There is too much beauty and wonderful experiences to gain and collect in the world to let it slip us by.

It totally seems that most people that are victims of crime when traveling outside their home country, has been affected because they were more careless than what they would've been at home. Just like my friend and I was that hazy Sunday morning in Barcelona. Just stay sharp and use common sense and you should be just fine. 

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A well deserved pause

Oh sweet jesus, isn't this a sight for sore eyes then I don't know what is. All Alex's cans and chemicals are finally, after two months scattered about in our direct living space, been transferred back to where they belong. Neatly packed and stowed away under the seats of the sofas. It is a relief greater than what you can imagine. Life goes back to normal again now that he's done with the renovation indoors. Of course, all is never really done knowing that we live on a floating renovation object and there are so many smaller details to consider. But we can finally bid adieu to the tough part for this time around, and we'll welcome a moment of peacefulness before we move onto the yard and continue with the maststep. 

Cockpit sole is now remade, compression tubes are in place, the area around the sinks are repaired, sealed and re-varnished, the bulkheads are installed, the leak in the water tank is fixed, fittings and new scuppers on deck are installed and maybe I forgot something now. Will show images of these jobs shortly. Only being anchored rather than tied to the dock, gives us a brand new sensation. It's a thrill walking around on deck, inside and in the cockpit and sense how much more united the boat is now compared to only eight weeks ago. Those tubes and the bulkheads really made a big difference. We're still a bit nervous about how these new additions will adapt and feel when we're actually sailing, but we won't know before new mast step is in place as we don't want to tension the rig before that has been done. We (especially Alex) need some time of peace and tranquility before that new project starts though. Three years of almost non stop boat work and rushing through islands, he's starting to feel it. Complaining he feels old and tired, and having always been extremely active, he's now begging for a long quiet vacation. It's really a pity there are no clean and nice beaches around this city.

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International visitors

So nice being on anchor again. And so much activity around us in this bay in between the skyscrapers of Boca Grande and the commercial harbour. I find it interesting that Dutch and French navy ships come and go like they belonged here. This is a massive Dutch patrol vessel just leaving port. After some googling, it seems to us it could be the one called Groningen P843?

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Seeking refinement

On Friday night, we were delightfully invited to the private yacht club, Club de Pesca, by a Colombian club member and owner of an impeccable Friendship 40’. Ivan also happen to be our blog reader who found us through this online diary of ours and contacted us already when we were still in the West Indies. It was a very pleasant evening full of food, music and wine among Ivan’s family and friends. 

A normal occurrence when socializing with new people, is that we often get to answer questions about how the journey is, how did it begin, how long time we have left of it and other very normal questions that naturally are born out of curiosity for this sort of travels. One of the best questions, in my opinion, is: Why did you decide to let go of everything to sail around the world? What was the drive? Was it adventure, to prove something to yourself or someone else, or to find yourselves? 

The answer to this seem to slightly develop with time, as at least I, get to better explore the reasons for my own reasons with a clearer view as the journey unfolds. The questions of that night got me thinking. What is the actual psychological reason, and with a rear view of past chapters in life, and the first three years onboard a boat behind us now - how would I describe it today. 

To find myself sounds a bit pretentious and the sentence is so worn out by all those commercial self help books that I’ve almost lost connection to its real meaning. Having always been very close to myself, always followed my instincts and dreams, never lied to myself, always made my best in being connected to the truth, never stayed someplace that would make me unhappy and so forth - I think I’ve had a pretty good and clear view of who I am and what values I stand for. I've never been a crowd pleaser and never ever would I hurt myself in order to do something that was expected from me. I have done my mistakes like everyone else and thankfully so as that is how we learn, but I have always listened to my own needs and knew very early in life that if I wanted happiness and to gain meaningful and growing experiences, I better go out and search for it. So no, I haven't exactly felt the need of finding myself, I've been me all along.

But of course I've learnt to know myself better in the process of this tour. I've had the opportunity to put my life in relation to previous chapters in life, and in that way been able to define a more complete and better nuanced version of who I am. I'd say that what this journey has done for me so far, and what is one of the main reasons to why I embarked on it in the first place – was the chance to refine my life and myself.

This time off the random, with all the challenges and adversities we have had to go through, without much other outer distractions, has given me the opportunity to study myself with a microscope. I've better learnt to know which sides of my personality and my life that has been good to me and others, and which has been less so and what needed to get reorganized or removed from life. It has showed me more clearly who I am in relation to my family and my friends, and the longing has taught me better what and who really is important to me. 

I have also been able to work with the things that I love, and from the foundation that I am and have always been as a human being - I’ve been able to start polishing in the corners of myself, cleaning up the ugly traits and enhance the positive in a brand new light. I have been able to extract the essence of my soul, my needs and my mind. And thus growing and developing in this refinement process. 

The answer to “why do we do this” is a bit different depending on who of us two you ask. For Alex who isn’t (yet) as spiritually inclined as I am, this journey means mostly to get away, find happiness in simplicity, cut off pressure and a society that is destructive, and to sail and sail and sail – which is one of his greatest passions. I too had a strong will of getting away and I do love sailing which has also grown to become a great passion of mine - but for me the sailing part, although exhilarating and wonderful, is merely a tool to fundamentally grow and better define my mind and my life's purpose. Sailing is an expression of freedom which we both seek. But the freedom and clutter free life gained, also offers insights and opportunities to learn and grow from within.

Besides the refinement process, this journey has also given me an opportunity to compare different worlds and learn from all places and people we've met along the way.

I have always strongly believed that you must walk on both, or four sides of the meadow to know how the grass feels from every different angle before you actually know what you’re talking about without risking to judge falsely. Before having tried it all, we can not be complete. It is a bit roughly put, but it is a philosophy that I often adhere to in most areas in life. I've wanted to know how everything feels. How it is to go through a storm and survive and how does it feel immersing in nothing but quietness for a lengthier period. How does a big glamorous city life feel in comparison to a life in the suburbs or in an introverted village? What does financial freedom actually do to a human being and how is it to be completely broke and pull yourself out of the dirt with nothing but your own sore hands? How it is to love immensely and how does it feel to get hurt? What are the needs and dreams of a person living in a capitalist society, compared to the ones with less financial and educational opportunities? What are the real differences between the mind of a man and a woman, and can those differences be adjusted and altered - and if so, by what, love? Fear? All those things that every human feels at one point or another in life. How strongly influenced are we actually by the fundamental needs and what happens when we are left with nothing but the essentials? 

I’ve always had so many questions and I’ve always felt a strong need of searching answers. One truth is one, but never the complete truth. Having lived and experimented for thirty-one years now, I do believe I’ve come a long way in my studies but I am in no way done with my research. I believe it is a lifelong process, and I believe that every situation and every person that we meet in life can teach us something of value. Not always through their knowledge or their skills, but only by observing others,  we can learn something about ourselves.

This journey means so many things, but ultimately, it offers so many answers that I would not have gained if I would have forever stayed on land. There are obviously many ways to gain such intellectual knowledge, I'm not saying traveling by boat and living on the sea is for everyone. But for me, who’ve tried and searched on many different levels, in various different worlds already - the opportunity to get off the grid and isolate myself from the ordinary to see how life is with less - was simply a no-brainer. I was given the opportunity to grow further and learn more of what I needed to know. About myself, about love, about the world, about others. 

Naturally none of this would have ever been possible if it wasn’t for the fact that Alex and I work so well together as a team, with the occasional meltdown on the way of course as it happens for any couple. We’ve had our sour moments and periods be so sure. But even though our motives and needs aren't always exactly the same, we have proven to ourselves that we have what it takes to survive - physically, mentally, technically - combined, between the two of us. Even in moments where life has been literally and completely turned upside down – we have survived, and it has brought us closer. Not only to each other, but also to our real selves.

For me, this voyage as well as life itself, is all about refinement in the end. To be able to paint a clearer picture of the world, and gain a better understanding about ourselves and our life's purpose. No one knows how long we have left on this planet, so for me it's been essential to learn as much as I possibly can until it's time to throw in the towel. Be it with literature, earlier gained experiences, people we meet and the travels we do - why not combine all these things in one and the same boat. One could say that this time traveling on water with all what it means, is one of the most important teachers I've had the blessing to encounter in life. And there's still so much more to learn. The capabilities of the human mind are endless, and so are the challenges of this world.

Read on here for some of my more casual, practical thoughts on the advantages of a life at sea.

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For the morning smoothie

A day always starts off well with a fresh, perfectly ripe mango delivery. $0.25 per fruit isn't such a bad deal.

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Weekend

 No matter if you'll quietly celebrate yours with a coca leave tea
or choose to go all in with a proper techno slut... we wish you a very merry weekend.
Maybe a little something like this to kick it off.

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How to deal with longing

Having spent two months in the marina, I am immensely looking forward to get out sailing again, though there always seem to add up so many tasks on the last few days before leaving port. Add at least a week to your set departure date and you are probably short already. Earlier, before I had gotten used to this lifestyle, I used to get stressed and anxious to throw away the bowlines or weigh anchor and I would add my share of pressure to the already busy and tensed situation that a much longed for departure is when having been tied to the dock or dug to the ground for a longer period. 

These days I'm thankfully acting more calmly when we realize that we have to wait it out a few more days or weeks. The extra job that is getting done is anyway always for a good cause and there really is no need to stress through life. It is fascinating being able to follow ones own progress to the better. And very fascinating too how those new changes adapts in other areas in life. I'm comfortable and very pleased with the calmer, more harmonic and better balanced version of myself that has grown out of this journey. But still, dying to get out there.. it is a necessity and a very addictive drug for your soul, being able to travel freely on water.

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Aletta's goat farm

Another inspiring person we've met while on Bonaire a couple months ago, was Aletta van Beeck, a physical therapist born in the Netherlands. Without any prior background in farming but with a lifelong dream of living self-sufficiently and in close connection to nature, farmland and animals, she today lives in Bonaire where she manages her own "Kunuku" - the local name for a farm. Aletta is strongly committed to her daily work with lots of love, care, attention and affection for the nature and her beautiful group of animals.

Her farm is literally off the grid on the inside of the island. A jeep is much recommended for transport through the brushy cactus scattered road that leads to her land. The farm has no electricity, all is obtained by solar power, and water is collected off the roof. Aletta cares for about sixty goats today and she has no other help than from the occasional volunteer who picks up extra tasks like bottle-feeding babies and clearing cactus, as well as family and friends who occasionally visits from the Netherlands.

At 4.30 each morning she wakes up to call for her goats to feed them breakfast and to milk the females. Twice a day for a period of five months after they've given birth, the female goats are milked by hand. Besides concentrated goat food the goats are provided with natural greens and homegrown corn for higher milk quality, and they keep themselves happy and in good shape by roaming the wide meadows. In the evenings they are called back for shelter in the open air stables. 

 Twice a year Aletta calls for reproduction by hiring male goats to keep the milk production running. She has two groups of female goats to circle in pregnancy, milk production and pausing. The little ones grow up close to their mothers and have, as part of Aletta's philosophy, their share of the natural mother milk. The goat cheese is turned from milk to cheese during a five day procedure of draining and turning in a cooling room with a constant temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. After this five day procedure the finished cheese is ready for final control and packing.

Having eaten chevré all over the world, this was without doubt one the best ones I've ever had. To be able to see the whole process and understand how content the animals seem to be and how well taken care of they are, made the experience all that much stronger. Aletta also serves coffee with fresh goats milk which Alex said was very good, and she also produces goats yoghurt which we also had the great pleasure to try out.

The produce is sold to most restaurants and grocery stores on Bonaire. Would have been wonderful if she could export to the neighboring islands too but it would probably not be financially feasible with the expensive air transport required. If you ever visit Bonaire, which I wholeheartedly recommend you to do at least once in your lifetime, you must visit Aletta and her charming goat family. It was a true pleasure meeting someone so genuinely passionate about her land, the animals and the simple living that she so profoundly stands for.

Check out her website here.

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New cockpit

Teak was removed, cockpit sole was redone, planks have been glued back in place and teak is now prepared for caulking. Feels more firm and steady already and leak should be gone after this is finalized. So thankful that it never rains here in this city. This is the last blue tape on the boat by the way and it is nowhere to be found in Cartagena. Glad (not only for tape reasons) that we're soon getting visit from the US of A.

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News

A couple new bags in store. These are a finer version of the traditional Wayuu, they are also hand-woven, but with only one thin cotton thread at a time, making them lighter, tighter and finer in texture and takes a longer time to produce. They are incredibly well made and I love the beautiful detailing of them both. The bracelet I'm wearing is in store too, earrings coming up shortly.

Don't miss to see the bags that are on sale.

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Bowstring

We went out to the beautiful Bowstring to get some more photos for the ones that have showed interest in her after our advertisement. Just like with old houses and any other classic wooden boat with a long trodden history and soul, this old little boat has such a special energy. Alex is in love with her of course and said, "if only Duende was done we could buy her too". You have probably guessed it already, but this is what I'm dealing with here. Won't be easy to ever get my partner to settle down with what there is, he'll always need to be hands full with tiring building/renovation projects. 3,5 years together and I have slowly but surely realized that it is the sort of ongoing challenge he needs to feel fulfilled. If it actually is fulfillment or madness that is the drive, I have yet to figure out. At least I've made him agree that the next project whatever and wherever that will be, we won't be living on it during the hardest part of the refit. Or if it is a house, then perhaps..

This boat certainly needs a proper cleanup and a lot of tlc but if you look beyond the obvious, she has such great potential to become a lovely live aboard vessel for one or a couple, or a weekend cruiser in some beautiful waters. The character of such a classic yacht with these elegant lines is so much more worth than any plastic production boat, in my humble opinion. It is almost like a living being which tells a story from the past.

Here are a few more pics if you'd like to see more details. 

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Another night in the marina

Stan(islav) and Andrey invited us over for a nice meal on their Alubat last night. Always great hanging out with likeminded people, exchanging music tips and sailing stories. Got introduced to a few new Russian producers, here are some good sets by Dima for example if you want to have a listen. This (ambient) and this (more progressive) are my favorites of what I've heard thus far.

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