Showing posts with label Cartagena. Show all posts

Safety in Colombia

And here's the view when the boat is swung towards NW. Boca Grande to the left, the Colombian navy base straight ahead. Feeling safe here, having so many nations army surrounding us.

Speaking of safety. So many people seemed concerned when we a few months ago declared that we were going to Colombia, and also that we were staying there for a few months. Why? It's dangerous? Aren't you afraid? Evidently, there is a rumor that Colombia is very dangerous and of course we didn't take that supposition lightheartedly. But when weighting and studying the good and the bad rumors, we realized that the positive reviews and people who've actually had good experiences from the country, overwhelmed the bad. Yes we had heard and read about people getting mugged, drugged, shot and even killed. But we had never encountered anyone who actually had faced these problems. 

Having lived in Spain and Barcelona, you have inevitably been or at least you know someone who's been mugged at least once. And drug rapers are everywhere, I know of people in little Gothenburg, in Dubai where drugs aren't even allowed, in Barcelona, New York and probably in your hometown too - who's been victims of date rape drugs. These things happen everywhere. No city, no place is spared from these sad occurrences. We live in the world, so we must learn to know and accept the world, not be scared of it. Good and evil go hand in hand and if you want one, you can never totally escape the other. It is just up to you to practice the right amount of vigilance and make sure to not put yourself in situations or places, nor surround yourself with people who might mean a threat to your life and personal integrity. To be scared about everything in the world won't help the matter, but conscious planning, education of real facts (and not only propaganda showed in the news), as well as always having one eye open to your surroundings - will keep you out of most trouble.

Of course that means the obvious: Do not get totally wasted alone with strangers. Only collect money from a secure ATM inside of a bank or a mall rather than out on a dark empty street. Walk in lighted and peaceful neighborhoods rather than dark and sketchy ones if you want to be out at night. Do not carry more money than what you can afford to loose. Leave passports and things of value in a safe in your hotel room or on the boat and do not wear startling jewelry in countries and cities where a simple necklace of gold means a monthly income for the natives. Show respect to the local people and learn to know their traditions and manners rather than insisting on expressing your own culture out loud. Use registered taxis, no dodgy versions, and if alone, ask a restaurant or a hotel to call and book one for you rather than hailing them on the street. Don't flash your values nor your money. Don't be too obvious with your expensive camera in rural areas or where there are no other people. If someone would rob you, let them do so rather than fighting against it. 

One beautiful summers morning at 3:00 am, a girlfriend and I was robbed by ten young guys on a lonely dark street in Barrio Gothico in Barcelona. Yes I said ten. I resisted and screamed out of anger, and thankfully for us, we had our lucky starts joining us that night and these boys got away with only a bag. That event made me realize how incredibly lucky we had been. Your life will always be so much worth than a few hundred dollars or a camera in your old leather purse. These things happen everywhere, just be smarter than what we were. We were young, drunk and had taken a dark trippy road we had never been on before. In a way I feel it was our own fault what happened that day, we were simply too careless and allowed ourselves to be vulnerable. Another lesson learned. These days I am naturally more conscious and observant to my surroundings.
In my opinion, Cartagena feels no more dangerous than any other big or medium sized city I've been before. In fact, I've never visited any city or country where I've encountered so many security guards and police men patrolling day and night than here, and that gives a very peaceful impression to the place. We have walked these towns both day and late nights and never ever have we felt any threat. But that's because we walk where we should walk and not where we shouldn't. 

Let's forget what they say in the news and instead have a look at some real numbers and recent statistics. In a recent list of the fifty most dangerous cities, counted by murder rate, neither Cartagena nor Santa Marta where we were previously, makes it to the list. But we have four American cities such as New Orleans, Detroit, Saint Louis and Baltimore listed. This is just to give some perspective, as it is mainly American readers who have expressed their concern about the dangers of Colombia. Now, there are a few Colombian cities on that list too: Cali, Medellin, Cucuta, Pereira and Barranquila. And though they aren't on our list of cities to visit this time around, we would hesitate as much or as little as we would for Cape Town, Panama City, Johannesburg and Kingston - all which are also included in the list. You must also remember that gunshots and murders most often happen either among family members or in between gangs and obviously where there are drugs, there are naturally conflicts of interest. But you are not involved in such conflicts, and thus you shouldn't have to worry too much about other peoples whereabouts.

Kidnappings were earlier a matter of concern in Colombia, but since 2002, both kidnappings and terrorist attacks have fallen 91 percent. As a result of Colombia’s nationwide efforts to improve security, tourism has doubled since 2004 and foreign direct investment has skyrocketed. Despite what many people might want you to think, travelers in Colombia has not been the targets for kidnappings. Unless you are here working for a multinational corporation or CIA or such, your chances of being kidnapped while on holiday in Colombia today are as big as in your own home country.

Then if we look at the number of guns per capita, we all probably know which country leads that list by far. Colombia has only 5,9 guns per 100 residents, compared to 88,8 guns for every 100 people in the US, and roughly 30/100 in Scandinavia. In this crazy world we live in today, there is no real safe place anywhere which is a real sad fact of truth. But we must be wise enough to make our own opinions and stop listening too much on media which is anyway owned and controlled by a wealthy few who has their own personal and financial interests. We mustn't close ourselves in because of fear. Traveling enriches you, fear will always limit you. There is too much beauty and wonderful experiences to gain and collect in the world to let it slip us by.

It totally seems that most people that are victims of crime when traveling outside their home country, has been affected because they were more careless than what they would've been at home. Just like my friend and I was that hazy Sunday morning in Barcelona. Just stay sharp and use common sense and you should be just fine. 

Another night in the marina

Stan(islav) and Andrey invited us over for a nice meal on their Alubat last night. Always great hanging out with likeminded people, exchanging music tips and sailing stories. Got introduced to a few new Russian producers, here are some good sets by Dima for example if you want to have a listen. This (ambient) and this (more progressive) are my favorites of what I've heard thus far.

Last night

We have a couple lovely new neighbors here in the marina. Stan and Andrey from Russia, sailing on an Alubat 58. Last night we went out for some wine and dine with them and their newest crew member Laura from Bogota. Walked round town after dinner and jumped onto the very touristy horse carriage with Café del Mar as the final destination. How nice not having to walk in those high heels actually. Well there, we ordered a bottle of baileys and a bucket of ice and relaxed with the sound of chill out tunes on a Sunday version of the normally very busy lounge bar. Baileys must be the coziest liquid ever by the way. It's like drinking milkshake with a tiny sting of something toxic. I have early teenage memories from when I stole a couple deciliters from my step-fathers inventory and refilled with the same amount of water. I wonder if he ever noticed.

Robert Clark design - Boat for sale

It really is such a shame all the abandoned boats that are left to their pitiful destiny in various marinas and anchorages around the world. We've seen this wooden beauty here a few slips away from us and it saddened us to hear that no one takes care of her these days. We're now thinking that maybe one of our blog readers could be interested in this stunner so we took these photos the other day to show you. 

It's a 39 feet Robert Clark, built by Berthon UK somewhere around 1960-70. She needs a lot of love and care but for $12.000 USD it can be well worth it if you have at least a little bit of boat and maintenance skills. It would be such a shame if this boat too had to end its days rotting away in a murky marina. She has a Yanmar 3 cylinders engine which runs well, there's a set of sails and solar panels. The planking in some areas and the area around the mast step would definitely need some attention but if you have the motivation and would love a yacht with these admirable lines, then I'd say the low price could make up for it. Email us if you're interested/want more photos, or get in touch with the marina directly (Spanish speaking.)

Sweet demand

We've developed a rather serious sugar addiction during our stay here in Cartagena. At least once a day you can find us either in a coffee shop trying out different new creations or on the way out from a bakery or pasteleria with an old time favorite cake in hand. Not the best for skin and body perhaps but it isn't forever so why not enjoy it while it lasts. It's all fairly cheap here too. These two cakes and a café con leche for a total of 8.000 Pesos equivalent to $4.50 USD. Even more a reason to try them all out one by one..

Soon time to go

We're soaking in the last few moments and impressions of this city before it's time to move on. I am still waiting for confirmation about the crane and costs for the same from two yards on each side of this bay so depending on the outcome of those, we might be sailing towards Panama in the next few days. That would be amazing, with a few days of well deserved vacation for us both in the San Blas islands before yard time. Now only hoping they can confirm they have that crane available over there, mast needs to get unstepped and stowed away for a few days in order for Alex to make a new mast step that we desperately need to have done.
200 miles to sail from here to the San Blas islands of Panama which is an archipelago comprising approximately 378 islands and cays, of which only 49 are inhabited. Looks beautiful, wouldn't you say?

Colours of the city

The historic center between the old walls sure is a touristy area and you can't walk many meters before someone's offering you the "best exchange rate in the country", "finest emerald jewelry on the planet", fresh fruit, "purest cocaine" or chubby Fernando Botero souvenirs. But if you work your way through those obstacles, there's always something captivating and colourful that catches your attention. As much as there's at times ruthless sales going on, as much is there real human life ongoing in the very same barrios. We all have to make a living after all, in one way or the other.

Ábaco Cartagena

Ábaco CartagenaÁbaco Cartagena
Ábaco Cartagena
Ábaco Cartagena
Ábaco Cartagena
A great place to duck into and escape hot summers days in the city is Ábaco Libros y café. A well stocked book store carrying many great photo and coffee table books on local architecture and artisans. History, philosophy and psychology books crowd the shelves alongside the regular selection of classics and modern novels. If your Spanish isn't good enough to buy a book in the local language, get online on their wifi and enjoy an afternoon cocktail or a refreshing lemonade, all the while absorbing the comfortable ambiance with low jazz music sounding from around. My type of place. And a big plus always for their incredibly tasty and fresh carrot cakes and other homemade pastries.

You'll find Ábaco on Calle de la Iglesia 3-86.

Moved places

Since the slip we've been in for a month now belongs to a local boat that just returned, we were asked to move to a slip in front of it. Doesn't matter to us, now we're right in front of the skyline of Cartagena and facing the bay rather than a bunch of other boats! No we haven't still gotten to the yard, there always seem to be so many other things to finalize but we're easy, as long as some sort of progress is being made every day, we're happy.
I celebrated our new view with a cold beer.
Hello bud. 
And this is our lovely Swedish neighbor. He was in front of us before, now we're next to each other. Will tell you more about this guy and his boat very shortly. We've met so many friendly, interesting people here in this marina, Club Nautico, Cartagena. It goes without saying that we feel very much at home right here, it even reminds us a tad bit about Barcelona. Club Nautico is also the most affordable marina we've encountered since we left the Mediterranean 2,5 years ago, a huge plus now in times of refit and repairs.

Another perspective

A few photos taken by Jade while they still were here. Should always have a professional photographer around for more lovely candid shots like these! She doesn't update her blog often enough - though I wish she would share more of her stunning shots with the world - but here it is if you want to have a look.  

No plans no worries

One of the things we decided a while ago was that we must not get into another rush. Many parts of the past three years has been stressful for the simple reason that we wanted to first get moving and start the circumnavigation already while still in Barcelona preparing the boat. And later on after we've been stuck in the Caribbean for almost two years due to change of boat etc, all we wanted was to get going forward. I guess acceptable and something most people might have done out of excitement and anxiousness for another adventure. But still, after arriving to Cartagena, we decided that the final big boat work will have to take the proper time it takes. Would we then be delayed from here to the extent that we would need to rush our way through the South Pacific to not hit the tropical storms when they start on that side in early November, well then let's not go right now and instead we'd stay around here for a few extra months until storms are over. 

There's no rush really, there's no deadlines to meet, and most importantly - we are in a good place and there are still a few areas which we haven't discovered on this side of the world. Cuba, Jamaica, Mexico and even Miami or why not New Orleans? These places are only hypothetical destinations right now, as we might as well be ready to transit the canal in time or make some other plans on the way. But if there's one valuable lesson we've learnt on our years at sea, it is that with stress comes pressure, with pressure comes unnecessary fights and arguments and if we take the time to remind ourselves, these were exactly the things we wanted to escape and get rid of when we first left Europe two and a half years ago.

Colombia has also been so good to us. Though I must admit, Cartagena is very touristy in the historical center and that's something one can get a little sick of after a while. But if you know where you're going and try to avoid most traps, this town is one interesting and inspiring place. It might not be super easy to find boat equipment and spare parts here, but on the other hand we've got most things we need onboard already, and there are so many other things that are way more economical and accessible here than in other parts we've been with the boat thus far. There's always pros and cons with every place. Big plus is that we feel very much in peace here, much thanks to the friendly and helpful people we've encountered.

So bottom line with this text is, we'll see what happens in the next few months. We are not going to stress it, though we do our best in finalizing our boat projects as swiftly as we can. Another option in case we won't be done before the Atlantic hurricane season begins - is that we could possibly sail out to Ecuador on the Pacific side, leave the boat there in one reputably safe and good marina for a couple months, and get out exploring the inside of South America by foot. Or why not from here? Cartagena is also out of the hurricane belt.

So many options. Best thing is that we still have time to experience it all, be it this season or the next. Safety and peace of mind is most important to us, neither of which we are planning to sacrifice this time around.

Randoms from the previous ten days

Often passing by the skate park when walking to Caribe Plaza, the mall.
Humid hot mornings in the marina.
One of many rustic doors in the center of town.
Beautiful Jade on Malagana's rooftop terrace, enjoying some sangria without the boys.
Nail-polish all around. First time in months I've bothered to paint.
Kids joining for dinner? Never a problem as long as you have tools to keep them entertained!
One Italian dinner.
Alex making a groove for lumber-holes and prepping gelcoat for epoxy application under the hatch cover.
So glad we've had the company of these cool people for a few days.
Finally tested El Bistro.
Paella was good.
As well as the sautéed shrimps.
Typical view of the city.
My two favorite We Dream In Colour bracelets can now be found in our shop! I absolutely love wearing the vintage brass one with the olive glass beads and the small horse head hook. 10% discount on these for our readers, check them out here. And the bag can like always be found here.
A typical Colombian lunch.
With tamarind juice.
A great spot for traditional home made, qualitative and affordable local lunch and dinner. 
Another obligatory soup before a Colombian meal.
Traditional food in the making.
Last nights read.
Always waking up with these two guys on my side. 

Great mixture of events this past week. Rooftop cocktails, late dinners with new friends, back to sleep in our own bed and some real good progress been made on the boat. Now back to the final boat projects here in the marina and soon we're off to the yard..