Showing posts with label ST BARTHS. Show all posts

Cultural differences

Our friend is flying home to Boston today so we'll be back to our normal routines again. From today our days will not be filled with as much dining and exploring out, but instead we'll be back to preparing the boat for our Pacific Crossing that is rushing towards us at a fast pace. I will also be back with the computer to catch up with work that's been neglected in the previous weeks of "vacation". As of the strong winds in the bay outside we have decided to stay another week here in the beautiful town of Santa Marta before continuing to Cartagena. 

I know I'm repeating myself, but what a wonderful change to be here in a South American country. The West Indies are great in many ways: the beautiful beaches and lush nature. The scenery, the sailing grounds and the volcanic mountains are equally attractive and especially in hurricane season, you can still find astonishing places where your boat is the only one in the bay which gives a sense of disconnection to all and everything. You can also get a hold on good craftsmen for boat restoration and repair, for that Antigua and Grenada seem to be the best. But no matter how much we tried to see it, the culture and way of living didn't rhyme well with the way we see life should be lived. Here in Colombia people are happy though they don't have much in terms of money or security. They find joy and thankfulness in each other, music and just the fact that they are alive. People work hard for the little money they make and they are, generally, very friendly and hospitable to both natives and visitors alike.

In many parts of the West Indies (of the islands we've visited), many of the people we met seemed unhappy for some reason, or unmotivated is maybe the right word. There are many West Indian people that work hard, but most of the ones that you meet, are either extremely unproductive or have an attitude problem or in many cases, both. Something else that could frustrate us immensely is that people rather spend hours and hours, days after days waiting in the shade for that right tourist to pass by who they can overcharge for an, often, bad service or for not such a valuable product, rather than lowering the price and offering a smile, to be able to sell more. The philosophy on how to make a living and keep your visitors and clients happy seem to be the extreme opposite in the West Indies as opposed to a country like Colombia and many other places on earth.

The native West Indian people are also often racists towards white - some are better in hiding that than others, and inevitably, it creates a tension and feeds the negative energy from both sides and a segregation between locals and visitors is an unfortunate fact. Even many of the expats who've chosen to settle on the islands, has become equally bitter and pessimistic, probably due to how they've been treated, this is especially the case in Antigua (Falmouth Harbour area in particular). Sorry to say, but it's one of the most depressing places we've ever been, not because of the beautiful beaches for which they are so famous, but because of the fact that such a large amount of its population, whites as well as blacks seem to be fed up with life and they spread that negative energy all around. I would like to not have to mention any of this at all, but after having lived in the Caribbean for two years, it is a fact impossible to ignore. The only two ex-British islands we've come across that gave us a real positive overall experience were Grenada and Nevis, especially due to the kindness of the people we met, and we can't recommend them enough as lovely vacation destinations. 

The French islands are generally more hospitable than the British in our opinion, and the smaller ones of them, Marie-Galante and Les Saintes, are some of our favorites in the Caribbean - and the special sort of small-island-vibe is very much apparent on both of them. St Martin and St Barts will forever be very close to our hearts but unfortunately in this case, it is mainly because they reminded us of the mixed culture of Europe rather than the one of the other Caribbean islands. I have so much more to say about the West Indies and as soon as I have an opportunity I will go through them all one by one, but for now we are just happy to be someplace else to be able to get a real perspective of our past two years that we've spent over there. As you might know, we had never planned on spending such an extended amount of time in the West Indies, but different events kept us there for longer time than what we wanted and so we tried to make the best out of it according to our possibilities. But it is not before now that we are out of there and being in the light of this new, inviting and hospitable culture, that we can establish a fair look upon what we've actually been through. 

The beginning of a new chapter

So we left St Barts the other day with the hopes of having a pretty calm passage. 10-15 knots of wind was predicted but we realized pretty quickly that the forecast was under-exaggerating like so many times before. 21-24 was more close to the truth and the mixed swells made the boat consistently banging into the waves. Nice with a change if you look at it from an optimistic perspective. 
Back to cooking at 15 degrees. Beef stir-fry for lunch.
Arriving to St Kitts where the swell and wind calmed down with the protection of the mountain.
Calm before the storm. Blissful to, for a while, maybe an hour and a half, have complete calmness during sunset. There was almost no wind due to the mountain shadowing, yet we were still slowly making way around the coast.
And suddenly when the sun had disappeared in the horizon and we were again out in the confused seas, a huge squall hit us. We could see it coming with the little light there was left on the sky. Normally when you do you might attempt to escape it by altering your course, problem here was that we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of three, four different cloud formations coming from what seemed as all directions, leaving us with absolutely nowhere to escape. If you have ever sailed in your life you might know how it feels when you see the dark clouds approaching, the rain slowly moving from "there" to where you are and you quickly rush to prepare what can be prepared. Reef the main another time, in with half of the jib, throw the cushions below, on with the foul weather jackets and basically prepare yourself to eat shit, like Alex would've put it.
During my almost three years on the seas I have learnt to love and admire the sea in an overpowering way. It has brought me endless of love, thrills, excitement and many life lessons so I cannot else than respect it dearly. But I also know how vulnerable we can be in relation to it. There have been moments when I have felt that I was close to loose my life to it, and even if it only lasted for a brief moment, sometimes not more than ten seconds or let's call it ten thousand milliseconds in an attempt to try to paint a picture of how long those seconds can feel, it always always brings me back to the ground. Alex has a lifetime of sailing and sea experience, but this particular night we got hit by the strongest, in wind force, squall that we have ever experienced together. It lasted only for a blink of an eye but was enough to shake up our existence quite dramatically. Sitting here in the comfort of a coffee-shop it appears so distant and I have almost hard to remember the stress and anxiety a moment like that evokes, but truth is that if something has humbled me during these past three years, the sea is much responsible for it. 

When the screaming wind drowned out our voices and we saw the display showing digits over the fifties we got into the sort of trance that we have experienced together only a few times before. Luckily this one didn't last as long as the storm we went through during our Atlantic crossing, but was gone rather quickly. A tornado forming right above us and a few seconds later it was calm and quiet again. Such a surreal, bizarre feeling. It will never cease to amaze me how schizophrenic the weather, winds and waves are. Catastrophe can turn into complete stillness in a second and vice versa and there is a certain type of rush mixed with fear that comes with a moment like this. It puts you in place to say the least. Our main got scratched in several places during those seconds it swept through btw, need to get that repaired asap.

After the wind calmed down, we decided to drop the anchor on the coast of Nevis. Beautiful Nevis. But this time we were not planning on going ashore, just rest for the night and continue onwards the day after.
Early morning and we're off again. Sea was calm as a lake and what had happened the night before seemed almost like a dream.
Arriving to the SW coast of Montserrat, an overseas territory of the UK. This is the active Soufrière Hills volcano that erupted and destroyed the capital Plymouth in 1995. Tho thirds of the islands population was forced to flee, and much of the abandoned capital that you can see to the left in this photo is still buried in ashes. Most of the people that left the island have never come back since they lost all what they owned on Montserrat. The capital was later changed to Brades, located in the North, far from this particular volcano which still is active. When you sail past, you can feel the strong smell of sulfur as fume continues to vent.
Dinghy needs some bottom cleaning btw..
And late in the night we arrived in Deshaies in Guadeloupe. This is how it looked in the morning when we woke up. Calm and sunny and we were glad to have the hardest part of the passage behind us. 
Leaving Deshaies for Les Saintes. Almost no wind but sometimes that is better than too much of it.
A good sign of Alex being back in his comfortable and enjoyable routines is when he picks up his fishing rod.
Was a long time ago since last time.
Reading through some sailing books in search for anchorages in and around Guadeloupe that we might have missed on our previous journeys around here. Very happy to have the shade of a bimini btw!
Glad to be back in waters where fishermen is a norm rather than rarity.
A cup of tea with Dutch cinnamon biscuits and our latest obsession, skorpor with honey... 
At least five of these passed above our heads during the six seven hours it took us to slowly sail the thirty miles to Les Saintes. We imagined the planes to be flying to French Polynesia to where we wish to sail early next year. Such complete different ways of traveling. 
I have not seen my captain this relaxed in a long while. 1,5 year of hard work and stress is finally behind us. It might not have appeared as such in the blog, but we have gone through parallel hells, albeit small ones, but still enough to function as heavy weight on our shoulders. Alex has carried most of the physical stress and no one is happier than him that we are now opening another new chapter in our life. We're finally back in the cruising mode again, something we abandoned when we arrived in Antigua last year with the change of boat, too much work and other issues we had to deal with. Glad those days are over and behind us and that we finally can continue with the real World Tour...
And when we finally arrived in the channel between Guadeloupe and Les Saintes, the wind picked up once again. Flat sea and 15 knots of wind and we literally flew over the strait and into the bay of Le Bourg ..
Just in time for the sunset.
This is how it looked when we woke up in the early morning... beautiful tranquil Les Saintes... 
We have now sailed over to Marie-Galante and planning on staying a few more nights in this paradise.

The other night

This villa with gorgeous view over Gustavia harbor is also available through Marla Villas, St Barts.

Rain in paradise

If only the weather was like this also this weekend as we're finalizing our week long film project, instead tropical storm Rafael has brought thunder storms, rain and heavy grey skies to our region and there's nothing else to do than sit inside, listening to the aggressive rain drops hammering on deck, drinking tea, eating tartelettes au citron and organizing the material that we have on hand. Hoping for the sun to reappear shortly but seems as we will need to wait at least 48 hours for that wish to come true. Our stay here in St Barts got a bit prolonged which has been very pleasant, and we shall be sailing Southwards later this upcoming week. If all goes as planned, we will be celebrating our three year anniversary as well as our two year anniversary for this World Tour on the beautiful private island of Mustique in the end of the month.

Mixing work and pleasure

We've been on a villa hunt lately, we have a photo shoot and a video commission in the works and it seems as we might have found a couple suitable ones. This particular place is good too, don't we just love lunch restaurants with an oval swimming pool in between dining tables?

Night time in St Barts

It is slowly picking up here, meaning that it is the end of the (s)low season, places are opening up again and more and more people are coming back to the island. We enjoyed a great meal by the harbour last night and discussed some plans for the following weeks and months of sailing towards South America, further out into the Pacific ocean and French Polynesia and eventually onto South East Asia. Things look brighter than ever before and with the newly refitted boat, many fabulous projects on the horizon and more energy and excitement than in a long while, we have a lot to look forward to in the nearest future. 

Nightfall

It has been so calm here lately. Good for us as this anchorage, despite it's beauty, is usually incredibly uncomfortable and rolly due to the notorious swell that is common outside of Gustavia harbour. We're enjoying one more night here before we'll move over to another spot. After almost a month in a marina and three inside of the lagoon of sxm, we are relieved to be out in the open nature again. Nothing beats the ability to sit on deck during sunset with a cup of tea or a glass of wine, watching the sun disappear in the horizon, with the sound of crickets playing from the mountains in the background. 

On the other side of the island

We packed the bags with lunch picnic, fishing rod and camera equipment and went for a hike to one of the beaches on the other side of the island. This is the harbour of Gustavia seen from the hill close to Hotel Carl Gustaf. Yea, you might remember that St Barts was Swedish back in the days, thereof the Swedish names on everything from streets to hotels and even the architechture and the way the roads are built are reminiscent of typical Swedish style. Our boat is at the far top right in this photo btw, anchorage called Corrosol. 
Almost up at the top of this mountainous island. View is breathtaking. St Maarten in the background, our Duende is the one in the middle of the three sailboats.
If we look at the other direction, we can see Baie de St Jean with its beautiful beach and reef.
And the legendary and exquisite Eden Rock Hotel to the far left.
Finally up at the top and soon down on the other side.. 
Marvelous vistas.. 
Gouverneur Beach was our final destination of the day. 
Kids on the island have created these smart ashtrays made of soda cans which people can borrow during their time on the beach, so not to litter the area with their cigarette butts.
Alex fishing.
Most beaches are very quiet right now during low season, great if privacy is what you're looking for.

What we love about St Barts/St Barth is that everything is so clean, fresh, civilized and well organized. It might take you two three hours to hike to the other side of the island if you don't have a car (we hitchhiked back btw), but the beauty and serenity of the island makes it well worth it. Mostly inhabited by French (as it nowadays is an overseas collectivity of France), it oozes of the typical culture and flair that is found in Southern France. St Barts is also one of the safest islands in the world and if you are accustomed to European manners and traditions, you will feel very much at home right here. Will show you more photos from the village a bit later.