Archive for August 2012

Beauty

Our astonishingly beautiful, gracious Duende. With incomparable lines and fascinating character. How can a boat bring to ones mind and heart so many positive feelings, never thought that was possible? No matter how far we'd like to see ourselves from the need of material things, there will always be a certain type of happiness and joy evoked when surrounded by utter and exquisite beauty. Can't escape that fact.

Out sailing

We are still waiting for some important things, deliveries, boat equipment etc so we're hanging around this island a few more days. Patience is definitely the art-form we've been forced to practice most in the past two years. But we're pretty happy nonetheless. Things might move slowly, but in the right direction at least. We're going for a small sail today around the island, shall be sweet. Light breeze, sunshine, crystal clear water, a fridge full of healthy food ... what else do one need, really?

Playlist wednesday

This week I'd like to share with you a super pleasant mix between high and low, old and new, slow and banging that brings melancholy, bliss and nostalgia to my mind. All at the very same time, exactly how good old music should affect ones soul. We got some old Mobb Deep, amazing PJ Harvey, the best summer track ever by Larry Heard, an antique piece by Kate Bush, a bit of Radiohead, Air, my favorite Argentinian: Federico Aubele and more.... aaaaah, I love every single little note on this list. You can find it here on Spotify.

Tuesday dinner

Were dying for an ice-cream earlier tonight and after much searching, the only place open around Plaza del Lago was Burger King. Good (?) thing with that little place is that they got a 50'' TV screen inside of the restaurant and as we never watch TV usually nowadays (we do have one on the boat but haven't bothered to install an antenna), we got stuck inside of the AC-chilled fast food restaurant watching CNN for almost an hour. We watched reports from hurricane Isaac's devel over Louisiana, news from the Syrian war (from an American/CNN perspective) as well as news updates from the republican nomination (how boring). Not that the information provided were overly inspiring to us (except for the hurricane perhaps), but just because we normally never watch TV these days, we sat like spellbound, eating our $0.50 ice cream and ended the evening by ordering a burger each. Everything in the totally wrong order and not really what we had originally planned for dinner. TV, politics and the negativity of war and disaster seriously messes up with your brain, doesn't it. 

Feeling good


The feeling when you realize you've made just the right decisions. 
When life seems to be on just that right track and the flow is tangible..

I know it sounds silly, but I turthfully think that this journey with Alex, combined with this very blog, is the utter meaning of my life. In the most everyday kind of way as it gives me so much pleasure to be able to share this world and experience through my lens and my writings, as well as in a deeply fundamental way that we might not be able to fully comprehend right now. There is this gut feeling which tells me that this is oh so right and that feeling is incredibly sweet and comforting to live with. 

I'd like to send a big thank you to everyone of you whom sent us emails, comments, posts lately. And in the past too of course. Without you this blog would not have the significance it has. I'm so incredibly thankful and proud for the fact that we've managed to gather such a great bunch of amazing, smart, cool men and women as readers, from all over the world, in all different ages, social classes and statuses. And it's steadily growing with each day... pretty fucking incredible when I think about it. Thanks again for reading, commenting, sending us love and support and for just being part of this beautiful, sometimes challenging, time of our lives.

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In season

Picking up our daily fruits and vegetables from the market. Mango and grapefruit season is over here unfortunately so only the imported ones are good. But the tomatoes, lettuce, bananas, sweet potatoes, plantain and much of the rest is fine almost anytime of the year and tastes wonderful of course. And not to forget the delicious, super large Caribbean avocados that are in season right now!

thruth

“I call that man awake who, 
with conscious knowledge and understanding, 
can perceive the deep unreasoning powers in his soul, 
his whole innermost strength, desire and weakness, 
and knows how to reckon with himself.”

Hermann Hesse, Narcissus and Goldmund 1930

More of my photos, and a few quotes from some of my favorite books on Tumblr.

Freedom #3

...is to encounter a well functioning wifi connection that reaches all the way into the deepest corner of the boat while at anchor. Bonus when you've just gone through a storm and the house batteries have been loaded with extra wind energy so you can charge the laptop for {almost} as long as you want.

Aah, the bittersweet life of a freelance working cruiser. Some days are completely laptop-free around here, but most days require a minimum of four hours of work in front of that machine for my part. Luckily there are wifi in coffee shops and bars also in the Caribbean, but nothing beats the freedom of being able to read, write and work from your own, comfortable couch with the tea kettle on an arm length distance. 

We do have a fast satellite connection too, but as the cost to use it goes for $10 a MB, that option is kept solely for emergencies, forecast monitoring and quick blog updates from the sea during passage.

A brief encounter

The way to travel on land on these islands is not always as rapid as what it might have been in the past when still living on land. We obviously don't own a car, not even bikes anymore, so our land based choice of travel normally stands between 1.) Bus 2.) Taxi - even though we rather not spend money on taxis plus it's often hard to find one if you're not right outside a resort or cruise ship terminal which we very seldom are, and 3.) Hitchhiking. If we need to get from one point to another, we normally get out on the street, wait for a bus to drop by and if it doesn't, we always end up hitching. Because of no more trains for the night, we once hitched all the way from Toulouse in France to Barcelona, Spain. Was a very efficient journey as we only needed three different cars/drivers to get to our final destination, 250 miles (400 km) away. Also in Corsica we hitched our way through the mountains because we could forget about finding a bus, taxi or even a car rental shop. 

I love the concept of hitching. It's a very dynamic way to move. You basically get picked up and invited into a strangers private space for a while and it sometimes makes for a very amusing, mixed experience. One second you're conversing with an younger French couple about their experience in the Caribbean, the second second you're listening to a local woman singing gospel in her white Nissan (image) and the third you're sitting next to a bar owner who complains about the slow season and hear him lament about the inflation and economic situation of the island. 

You won't have to worry that you're disturbing anyone as they obviously wouldn't pick you up if they were bothered. Most of the kind people that actually do pick up, are often willing to have a little chat, mostly about their own lives and situations. Which gives you, occasionally a good laugh, always an interesting moment of exchange with a stranger you normally wouldn't start a conversation with. It's the bizarre melange of rapidly swapped situations that I love so much about the whole process. The weirdness of coming so intimately close to people you normally wouldn't. You are literally invited into someones home. The place where they feel most comfortable. You get to see what they wear to work, which music they prefer listening to, how they answer the phone.. You are an observer of someone in his or hers very private sphere where they are just the people they are, while you being as much of a stranger to them as they to you. And shortly after the encounter, you leave them behind and will probably never see them again. And of course, the journey brings you to your desired destination. Sometimes faster, most of the times more comfortable, than what the bus would have managed. 

Calmer now

Storm is almost over for our part, still a bit windy and rainy so we'd rather be on sunny shell beach, St Barts where this photo was taken two days ago. Hopefully having the sun back here by tomorrow.

Back in the lagoon

A night and a day in St Barts had to be enough for this time. Tropical storm Isaac is on his way to our islands so we sailed back to the lagoon of St Maarten which provides for best security around here during rough weather. Even here it might be hazardous would the storm become a stronger hurricane, as when the horrendous hurricane Luis destroyed 800 boats in the lagoon and caused 19 deaths in total around the islands in 1995. But Isaac will most likely not have time to develop into a hurricane before it reaches our longitudes, and certainly not a stronger one. Today is not as sunny and beautiful as on these images from yesterday's sail. We have grey skies, squalls and 20+ knots of wind here at the moment, 20 hours before the worst of the storm is expected. We'll be sailing down South where we're safe from hurricanes as soon as this bad weather has passed.

Freedom #2

...is to have your own boat and be able to sail wherever your heart leads you.

Our gearbox problem is solved so we sailed to St Barts last night. We had the smoothes sail here from St Maarten ever, 20 knots of wind from the NE, giving us an opportunity to sail straight to Gustavia from the lagoon of Simpson Bay, which has never been possible before due to normally consistent E winds. Took us two hours and fifty minutes and suddenly we were back in another world. How we love this place on earth. Somehow it feels like coming home, every time we approach the coastline of this petite French island that we've come to love so much during our year and a half in the Caribbean..

Kakao Beach


We had planned to sail over to St Barts early this morning but our gearbox failed so we ended up returning to the anchorage to sort out the engine problem. Instead of hanging on Baie de St Jean which was the original plan, our friends picked us up and we spent the rest of the afternoon on Kakao Beach by Orient Bay. And as for the departure from St Maarten, we are basically stuck here a few more additional days as there's a possible tropical storm making way towards the Caribbean as we speak. No place safer around here than the lagoon of Simpson Bay so seems like we'll be riding out yet another storm on this island.

mind at ease

I think I've started practicing yoga in every city I've ever lived, only to realize, after a few sessions, that I didn't have the patience nor "time" for it. Of course I understood the meaning and purpose of the training, just that I was too "busy" to learn how to slow down or how to breath correctly. I remember I was always wondering when the class would finish so that I could get out calling that important phone call or meet up with some friends for drinks. And a few seasons later, I tried it again, but I simply wasn't ready to slow down, until now. 

One of the main reasons to why I wanted to leave everything behind and sail around the world with Alex, was because I had come to a turning point in life where I felt the need to cut out the things that didn't really matter in the long run. I was also anxious to take a distance to the regular world, as an opportunity to begin looking inward. True that I've always been a spiritually inclined person, but my life was rushing too fast. Too many unnecessary challenges, way too much alcohol, late nights and I was leading a physically destructive lifestyle rather than a healthy one. Without consciously knowing that I needed to better take care of myself, I quickly suggested to Alex that we should set ourselves free and sail the oceans of the world together. For many other reasons too of course, much for the love and affection that we felt for one another, a chance to get closer to each other and to build a foundation for the love we were willing to invest in, but one of my personal reasons was that my body and soul was yearning for a change. A change that would allow me to grow as a human being.

Having been out sailing now for almost two years, thousands of miles away from the jetset-life I was accustomed to back home in Europe and around the world, one thing that has now grown to be more important than anything in my life, is to be able to breath freely, to lead a slower, harmonic life and to properly take care of my body. The body is after all what carries our soul and without constant attention to it we might loose contact with our inner spirit. That disconnection is something I've experienced much in my past, a distance to my Self that sometimes made me make wrong decisions as well as treating myself and others in ways that hasn't always been the best ones

So as a natural progress, I started practicing yoga again a few months back. Combined with my daily exercise and meditation, which I've been busy with ever since we left Europe behind, it allows my body and soul to be at peace with my being. Not only does it give my body the flexibility and strength that is good to have when sailing and leading a very physically challenging life as we do, but it also puts my mind at ease. It gives me strength and ability to, with a clear and conscious mind, make better decisions. It opens up my soul, makes me less affected by outer disturbances and distractions. It allows me to breath and analyze situations before rushing with answers and thus giving me time and opportunity to act better. Decide better. Do better. Live better. And evidently, to be a better partner, friend, human being than what I might've been before. Not saying I was ever terrible at any of those, just that there's always room for improvements within ourselves and I'm glad that I've found my way to achieve a greater form of inner peace and fulfillment. Which naturally reflects on the people I meet, those that I invite into my sphere and the people that I share my life with. 

Ultimately, life is just a series of actions and reactions, and we can choose if we want to make that chain a positive or a negative one. To keep myself in good shape, spiritually and physically, makes my little chain in this big world a better and more harmonic one. It really is so easy, and though I'm endlessly thankful for the vast experiences my earlier life has given me, I regret that I didn't fully embrace this knowledge before. Never too old for improvements though.

marigot

At anchor in Marigot.

from the sea

Alex hasn't been fishing much lately as we haven't done any longer passages in a while but soon we'll finally change that. In the meanwhile, we're shopping our fresh fish from the local fishermen here in Marigot where we're anchored at the moment. Today we had an oven baked red snapper. Even if that was delicious like snapper always is, nothing really beats the feeling of eating your own caught fish straight from the sea with no middlemen involved.

planning

Our days moves so slowly at the moment. Very pleasant indeed. While the boat is being prepared to go, we are now taking it easy, enjoying the last days on this island and discussing and planning on where to go next, which stops to make along the way towards South America. First stop seems obvious, can't leave the Caribbean behind without giving a proper farewell to one of the most beautiful islands in the world... more about that a bit later.

nightfall

Beautiful view from Blue Mall.

Freedom #1

.. is to be able to dive into the warm yet cooling crystal clear water first thing in the morning, after lunch or dinner, before bedtime.. or simply whenever the urge hit you.

well camouflaged

These miniature dinosaurs can be found everywhere on this island, around in the Caribbean as well as in South America. Some of the ones we've seen are around 1,5 meters (5 ft) in length from head to tail. Apparently, the species was first officially described by the famous Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus in 1758. In the two centuries since then, numerous subspecies have been identified, such as common iguana and the endangered Lesser Antillian Iguana which we unfortunately have not had the chance to see as yet. These lizards fascinates me, they seem so calm and carefree and until you come super close they have this very aplomb attitude. Just make sure to not come too close as they, when threatened, can deliver some painful whips with their heavy tail. If you ever seen these guys swimming you'd know how important their long tail is, they basically let their four legs hang limply on the side while they impressively propel through the water with powerful tail strokes. We'll be hiking up to the rainforest today, hoping to get a glimpse of the endangered sister species, or maybe some monkeys, we've heard there are a few of them left up there...

morning lightness

“So fine was the morning except for a streak of wind here and there 
that the sea and sky looked all one fabric, as if sails were stuck high up in the sky, 
or the clouds had dropped down into the sea..” 

 Virginia Woolf - To the lighthouse 1927

blue mall sxm

We got a round tour in the new spectacular shopping mall the other day. The first five floors are dedicated for the new shopping center that is opening here in November this year, and the following two are occupied by several gorgeous one or two storey residential apartments and studios. Many of them are sold already, but there's still chance to invest in some of the most interesting condos on this island. All with an absolutely breathtaking view of the Caribbean sea. There is a great gym, beautiful pool area and lots of other shared benefits in the property. The flats are intelligently planned with high end Italian kitchen, marble flooring, walk in closets and huge corner balconies in all apartments. Prices are very competitive, starts at $475.000. Send us an email if you'd be interested in having a closer look and we'll put you in touch with the right person.

hazy skies

There's a lot of Saharan dust flying around here at the moment, resulting in a hazy sky and limited visibility. The view reminds me of the thick pollution that is visible in the back of the city when sailing on the coast of Barcelona, but feels better to know that what we have here is coming from sand. Dust from sand that has traveled thousands of miles, all the way across the Atlantic ocean. I think it is kind of romantic in a way, to know that we all are connected in one way or the other. Just like we all share the same moon and stars at night.

pizza in the making

Not only does Alex's look sometimes fool people to believe that he's Italian, but he also recently proved to be making pizzas like one. We were invited to our friend Lynda for a pizza making evening the other night and without a pre agreement to do so, Alex took over the dough rolling and preparation like any Italian would have done it. Someone seem to miss a roomy kitchen just as much as I do! Thin crusty bottom and toppings after each of ours desire followed by a flavor competition... the Italian one with parma ham and arugula got shared gold with an all meat and cheese version. I wonder if I can get my man to recreate those delicious pizzas on the boat?