Showing posts with label Life at sea. Show all posts

Through the canal

Where were we? So we left Portsmouth in Virginia, and due to winter and the North Eastern storm that was active exactly this week, we chose to not sail on the ocean side in the area of the notorious Cape Hatteras. Instead, we prepared ourselves for 3-4 days of canal motoring. Something we didn't look too much forward to to be honest. I've mentioned before that our prop is too small for this boat and the engine doesn't have its own room but is installed under the saloon table/cover so really it feels like it makes more sound than actual progress. Thanks to wind from behind and mostly flat water, we managed to average approx. 5.8 knots throughout the canal trip so not too shabby after all.

Going through the Intracoastal Waterway as the canal system is called (which by the way goes through the whole East Coast of America) you will have to pass several bridges. Some of which are fixed at 65 ft (our mast is 63 something), some are lower but open on either request or on a particular schedule.
The canal also have locks.
I am sure this part of the trip would be much more enjoyable in the summer (as would by the way any part of the journey). Now you probably don't know Alex well enough to know this about him, but he has a very.... how should I put it.... French mood. Which means that if there is something to complain about, be sure your brain will get notified. Every 30 seconds. He is a walking paradox in many ways like many other of us human beings. I have never seen anyone deal with emergencies and life threatening events in such an efficient and focused way without raising one eyebrow, but emotional stress that could come from banal things such as ... too much marmalade on his toast, can totally get him off balance.

He gets shit done like no other and has an extreme determination, but he can't for his life write or follow a to-do-list (which by the way are my favorite things to write in the world). He is untouchable in many ways and can make a living out of anything anywhere, but he gets depressed and miserable if it's raining for too long. So you can only imagine how peaceful, harmonic and comfortable this part of the trip was, for us both of us in different ways, as it was raining 24/7. No leaves left on the trees, no visible life or wildlife to count on. And pretty much grey, dark, wet and cold for 3,5 days at end. Add to that the annoyance of the engine..

I think anyone that know me would say that I was born an optimist (sometimes too optimistic perhaps) and I can deal with anything that come my way. I could complain for a little while if I really needed to, but I never let it take more than a few minutes before I get over myself and accept and deal with what the universe has thrown at me. Alex on the other hand, seem to think that situations will change to the better if only he complains enough. Or if everyone around him feel the magnitude of his pain.

And don't you even dare to mention that you actually find a sort of beauty in the raw darkness of a cold winter landscape, because that's when the crying starts for real. Ha! I am exaggerating now but you get the point.

It has clearly taken me a few years to learn to accept the extreme opposite of my innate optimism, the sensitive pessimistic nature of my beloved Frenchman, and today I can finally laugh about it. When he's not around, of course ;) It takes a lot of practice, patience and even self confidence to not always wanting/trying to change people so they suit your personality, and instead accept that you simply were born differently. Don't you think?
Just another bridge on another rainy day.
Bought this thing on the farmers market in Portsmouth, can't remember the name of it now but it was a relative to the bok choy. Anyone knows?
Used it in many different meals, like this one. Sprouted beans with vegetables, turmeric and coconut milk.
Another meal while we're at it: Steamed rice with meatless crumbles which tastes so much like chicken when prepared with red pepper, red curry paste and coconut milk.
Cold dot com.
Stir fried cabbage with sprouted beans and a tomato salad. Plenty proteins..
"Is it over yet!"
Crossing the Pamlico River with a good breeze which gave us an opportunity to switch the engine off for some time.
The low pressure system had finally dissipated as we arrived to the other side of the river.
Swedish Christmas feeling with wonderful thin gingerbread from Anna's.
The hair that got washed approx. every seventh day over that month it took us to sail from Boston to Miami.
More of the green stuff, as well as more of the meatless crumbles, served with steamed rice. Have to try and find a non-gmo verified version of the crumble thing.
What a difference a few miles make. So much greener the closer to Morehead City we got.
Dolphins in the canal.
And more army helicopters. Felt good being near the ocean and blue water again. We stayed one night in Morehead City in a very friendly marina called Portside Marina, before we jumped out into the ocean and a two day sail to Georgia.

The last part of that wintery East Coast trip coming up here shortly ..... let me just say we are both very happy that we are back in the sun. Both the boat and the bike is now with us here in Florida and it seems this new year will be filled with much less cold rain than the previous. High five on that!

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New York to Norfolk/Portsmouth

Before we finally arrived in Miami, there was quite a long way to go from New York, which was the last sailing update you got from us here on the blog. The wind started slow and calm as we left Sandy Hook at sunrise. After lunch we had only a scanty 5 knots off the land to play with. We knew the winds would shift to N and pick up later in the evening to around 20-25, something we welcomed immensely because there's nothing as frustrating as bobbing around on the deep blue with no wind, and a mixed swell from two directions which our tiny two blade propeller would have to suffer through. Note to self: Get a new prop asap. 

A couple hours after the sun had set and we reached closer to the coast of Atlantic City some 60 miles from our starting point of the day, the wind suddenly died out completely. And two seconds later it had changed direction as predicted, and it hit our full sails and it hit it hard, with 25 knots from nowhere, in a second. The boat heeled over, releasing the pressure off the mast by pushing the rail into the ice cold blue water. The 25 knots grew quickly into 30 and it didn't leave our side before early the next morning. We should have reefed earlier! We yelled at each other through the howling wind. The stress that dramatic winds and weather brings on always pumps up your adrenaline but we've learned by now that the last thing there's time for in such a situation is an argument. You just have to shut your mouth and do what you have to do. Discuss the details later. 

The genoa got quickly reefed from the cockpit, but we didn't have the time to put on our life vests when Alex rapidly went to the mast to take a few reefs in the main. I cursed myself for not having made sure he wore it before the wind arrived. It usually increases slowly and doesn't normally surprise you like this. But who am I to think I can control the nature. We should have known better. 

It always fascinates me how quickly the sea builds with stronger winds, and now Alex was up by the mast, lowering the sail while I did my best in keeping the boat near the wind while maintaining the boom under somewhat control. The waves, the wind, the darkness. Please hold yourself. With three reefs in the main and only a few square meter left of the genoa, the boat became much better balanced again once we got back on track, now running before the wind. So glad we got that extra reef built into our new mainsail. It has our nervous boat feeling so much better in winds above 30. This night we had an established 30 knots and gusts up to 37 from approximately 7.30 pm to sometime after midnight when it dropped with five and stayed like that until arrival in Delaware Bay. At least we could be happy with the fact the wind came off the stern and not the nose!
We arrived in Delaware Bay and Lewes around 7.30 am, 120 miles in 24 hours isn't such a good progress but at least we were safe behind the breakwater. Exhausted from no sleep (we have no auto pilot so must steer all nights through), we decided to stay with the anchor firmly on the bottom for two nights. Also a good place to await our friend and his boat.
Leaving the dunes of Lewes with destination Norfolk.
A quick and easy meal at sea. Penne pasta with Tofurky Ground "Beef" and a dash of Hampton Creek's phenomenal vegan mayo Just Mayo. You don't have to believe me if you don't want to, but this shit tastes better than any egg mayo you'll ever find in your grocery stores. I swear. You have to try it. GMO free too.
A lonely little bird caught up with us some 30 miles off the coast. How did you get here little thing? He or she was all scruffy and looked confused as it landed on the boat but with a master meal of oats and pumpkin seeds that we fed her or him with, it regained energy and could fly off once we got nearer land. The boat often functions as a resting place for birds lost at sea.
This is just before it flew away. Looking sharp now!
Arriving to Norfolk, Virginia, which boasts the largest navy base in the world as well as one of NATO's two Strategic Command Headquarters. Lots of helicopter and fighter plane action witnessed. So incredibly much tax money wasted.
After having received several tips from you awesome blog readers on Facebook, we docked at the free town dock in Portsmouth, across the river of Norfolk. Since this whole trip was made so late in season, we were the only boat around until our friend arrived the following day. That was pretty much how it went down on almost all stops we made. It felt a little like those seasons we sailed in the Caribbean during hurricane months. Not many other boats out except us. We always seem to be doing things when they are not meant to be done. Or at least when other people choose not to be doing them. But hey, more space for us!
Christmas in Portsmouth.
Restocking provisions. Kroger Market was definitely the best of the two grocery stores we found in town. Took a 20 minute bus ride to get there and 20 back but much worth it.
A very typical breakfast onboard (well for me that is, Alex always has coffee and a couple toast with bitter orange marmalade): Creamy oats that was slow cooked with almond milk, agave, cinnamon and grated ginger. Served with more almond milk and frozen fruits. I like buying frozen organic fruit and keep them in a tupperware container in the freezer box. Easy to spoon out of and avoids fruity juice from escaping into the fridge. Plus it's easier to deal with than having to chop and clean fruits and berries while underway.

After that we were ready for the canal. We opted to avoid the notorious Cape Hatteras during winter, especially since a Nor'Easter was approaching. Instead we decided to duck into the Intracoastal Waterway for a few days. Three days of motoring all the way to Morehead City in North Carolina didn't sound much appealing at all. Our Perkins 4108 engine does not have a separate room but is installed in the saloon under the saloon table. The table/engine cover does have some sound proofing, but still it does feel like you have your ear right next to the engine at all the times when the engine is on. So obviously we prefer not having to use it all. BUT life is not always as comfortable as one would like, and that's probably why we love it so when it is.

More about the ICW later!

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Magic city

So we did finally arrive, didn't we? It's all a blur. Feeling the tiredness kicking in hardcore now a couple days after arrival. Sailing literally non-stop for 4-5 weeks whereof 90% of the trip was done in cold temperatures is draining on your body. Although you might not notice it as much before you stop what you're doing and allow yourself to take a moment to relax. So very tired now. But this is anyway what greeted us as we pulled into our new home town the other night. It's always a grande experience arriving to a new city ocean side, but somehow this neon colored town on water additionally pimped with christmas lights carried extra magical sparkle. It feels good to be here. Real good in fact. Though a tad surreal still.

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North Carolina to Georgia

Sing Hallelujah, we're back in the sun! Or at least in an anchorage on the coast of Georgia. The final state before our new home state, Florida. It's quite chilly in the air still, but that's ok, nothing beats Boston when it comes to cold. Just a little tan now and we're ready to roll like winter never happened. And um, a hair wash would be good too..

Did I tell you we are moving to Miami? Will tell you all about why etcetera another day, but we are extremely excited for a bunch of reasons. More sunshine hours in each day being the primary of course. We have 3-5 more days of sailing/motoring along the long coast of Florida before we arrive though but hot damn how marvelous being able to soak in some Vitamin D again!

Unfortunately no time to launch the dinghy and explore the state of Georgia today but be sure we'll be back here with the bike some time soon. Charleston we had to pass this time too, we loved it last time we visited and will definitely be back one day again.

After 48 hours of uncomfortable sailing with mixed swells and much stronger winds than predicted (never since we left MA has the forecast been right, winter is like that I suppose), it's suddenly so calm out so looking much forward to a few hours sound and steady sleep. More miles to make tomorrow..

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New York

Who does not love New York? Although we hadn't planned to stop there on this particular trip since our intention was to get where the sun shines asap, fate had it that we had to make a two day stop there anyway. If you follow us on Facebook you might be familiar with the accident that another boater brought upon us by ramming into our transom while we were leisurely cruising through the final part of East River. I know, it's so stupid that it's hard to even imagine such a thing possible. Such an incident is at the least of ones concerns when planning for a long sail. But it did happen, and we had to pause the trip for a couple days to look through the damage and deal with insurance companies. Of course it happened on a Sunday of Thanksgiving so that delayed us even further. We had the other boats insurance company visiting us to look over the damage while we later on arrived in Norfolk which we're happy they could accommodate so fast, and we're hoping this whole ordeal will have a good ending. At least I managed to get some pretty nice photos of New York in the process :)

We stayed at Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey, super nice facilities and great views over the Financial District of Manhattan as you can tell. Had a nice dinner at the Liberty House one of those nights and as many hot showers as we could possibly squeeze in within 48 hours..

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